Auto was a good start.  Some photos come out amazing, most don't but from what I find, editing yourself is the best way.  Messing with the Texture/Clarity and the other options there aren't great imo though top Professionals use them.

From my findings:

• Shoot in AEB
• HDR Merge, no Auto settings
• Straighten image/Crop
• Increase exposure > Decrease shadows. (brightness and haze removal)
• Increase a bit of saturation.  Decrease blacks > Increase contrast.  Fix temperature. (deeper colors, color correct)
• Decrease highlights.  (to bring the details back)
• Increase whites.  (to get the pop back)
• Heal tool on image imperfections.  Modify brush tool for the sky and other areas too exposed or too underexposed.
• Send to Adobe PSD.  Export to Preserve details > PNG, transparency off.
  

There is no need for color wheels and gain dials/curves that make it confusing.

Hello and good day AntDX316. Thank you for sharing this information with us and thank you for your valued support.

Thanks for the info!

Montfrooij Posted at 11-4 11:15
Thanks for the info!

You still make the best panos.

AntDX316 Posted at 11-4 12:13
You still make the best panos.

Thanks for that
I am working on some right now.
Should be posting them sometime tomorrow.

Thanks for sharing the info with us

Thanks for sharing this.

Thanks for the info , but i think each photo has different situations ( exposure , light , shadow ..etc ) so maybe auto is a good start then you need to adjust the rest as per photo and your eyes and what you like to see in the final result

bikoo Posted at 11-4 19:53
Thanks for the info , but i think each photo has different situations ( exposure , light , shadow ..etc ) so maybe auto is a good start then you need to adjust the rest as per photo and your eyes and what you like to see in the final result

Adjusting the auto is the novice way.  It's there to show you what potentially good looks like but after you've seen them and understand what good should look like, you no longer need auto.

Going back and adjusting my old photos with what I've learned now, they are better than they used to be.  I was using Auto all the time before but most of the time, it is going to be off and working with what is off can make things difficult to correct than adjusting a stock RAW photo is ultimately what I was trying to say.

The steps I've listed makes it easy to understand what it should look like with because if you do things out of order, it's going to be hard to correct and when you have multiple dozens of photos to work with to edit for a client, I don't really like spending too much time on each.

Good tips,  but a slight S curve usually helps too.

It’s always been good advice, to get as much right when shooting, no matter how good your software is, you cannot make a silk purse out of a sows ear .

DAFlys Posted at 11-4 23:30
Good tips,  but a slight S curve usually helps too.

If it works for you but I think some brush modifiers do the same.  The problem with S-curving is that it affects the whole image.  I like to lay the foundation first then adjust with precision.  The S-curves and dials make me compromise in some areas which I don't like.  I like being able to go deeper in some areas without compromising the other parts forever.

I would add either Saturation OR play with the Dehaze slider as it also adds saturation back. Also, I prefer to dial-in the Exposure settings after I do the Shadows and highlights. Clarity also helps with textures like the buildings you have in your photos. Just my 2 cents

AntDX316 Posted at 11-4 23:51
If it works for you but I think some brush modifiers do the same.  The problem with S-curving is that it affects the whole image.  I like to lay the foundation first then adjust with precision.  The S-curves and dials make me compromise in some areas which I don't like.  I like being able to go deeper in some areas without compromising the other parts forever.

You can apply the S Curve to a layer mask and then remove the adjustment from parts of the image where you dont want it applied.

AntDX316 Posted at 11-4 23:19
Adjusting the auto is the novice way.  It's there to show you what potentially good looks like but after you've seen them and understand what good should look like, you no longer need auto.

Going back and adjusting my old photos with what I've learned now, they are better than they used to be.  I was using Auto all the time before but most of the time, it is going to be off and working with what is off can make things difficult to correct than adjusting a stock RAW photo is ultimately what I was trying to say.

i never use Auto but maybe for beginners it will be good as start.

DAFlys Posted at 11-5 02:07
You can apply the S Curve to a layer mask and then remove the adjustment from parts of the image where you dont want it applied.

Why S-curve though?  It's less control imo as it adjust too many things on the screen.

AntDX316 Posted at 11-5 13:38
Why S-curve though?  It's less control imo as it adjust too many things on the screen.

Its a tried and tested technique for making an image "pop".  You can apply it selectively with a mash if needed.

https://www.techradar.com/uk/how ... r-must-know-1320970

DAFlys Posted at 11-5 23:06
Its a tried and tested technique for making an image "pop".  You can apply it selectively with a mash if needed.

https://www.techradar.com/uk/how-to/photography-video-capture/cameras/photoshop-curves-tool-6-techniques-every-photographer-must-know-1320970

I've done that before along with dodge and burn but they don't come out how I want it besides dodge and burn but it takes work that can be done with the brush modifier.  If you make a whole area the same such as gradient and the outer perimeter, it might be too bright or too dark in some spots/sides/corners.  The brush modifier makes it easy.  I think the curve works great if the Brush modifier that Adobe provides doesn't exist.  Imo, it could be like using an airplane to get to places that have runways than a helicopter for spot precision like a medivac to an accident scene.  People didn't bother to update to a better method.

I assume the curves are good when tech was older and not enough information was kept? or it's the lazy way of setting a foundation from software tech that did not exist before?  Personal experience, I just started this year so I'm not tainted w/ older methods that I can't remove.  I've basically started w/ the latest 2018 tech and software available.  I've picked up a DSLR to mess w/ at BestBuy and to actually be taking good shots w/ no "Liveview" is commendable but in today's world, not utilizing the tech that will work for you will only make things harder and worse for the client.

Good tips. Thanks