Anyone figured how to place the video camera in manual exposure not auto? Clearly the people who designed this are not video people, the settings are not intuitive at all. It's a  photogs setting varying ISO and shutter for exposure - yes, I know the lens is a fixed aperture.

Fixing the ISO and shutter is only achieved when I open the bottom settings and leave it open with the RC dial varying the shutter. Close the submenu and it goes back into auto by varying ISO and shutter values depending upon the light levels - awful. And to get anything near to decent exterior exposure using the lowest ISO with a 1/50 or 1/100 shutter is going to need ND filters.

In auto picture mode the resulting image has an annoying slow flickering (no it's not 50HZ flicker). It's more like a black level change or AGC hunting.

To really make it work better, we apparently need ND (neutral density) filters to keep some of the light out of the camera. In the meantime:

Don't close the settings window with the icon. Swipe the window off the screen. That will keep you in manual mode.

SETTINGS MODE ICON HIGHLIGHTED - YOU'RE IN MANUAL MODE
SETTINGS MOD ICON NOT HIGHLIGHTED - YOU'RE IN AUTO MODE

When you press the settings icon (the little box with the three lines in it below the shutter button) there's a window that opens on the left side of the screen - it shows three different settings and their values - I've only been able to change the ISO and the Shutter Speed. Make the changes you want to make and then WIPE that window off the screen. The settings icon on the other side of the screen whould remain highlighted - indicating you're still in manual mode.

This is probably just one of maye 30 oversights by whoever wrote the manual!

Clicking the settings icon will open manual adjustment. Clicking the icon once again puts you back in auto mode. Therefor you have to slide the adjustment window to the left in order to stay in manual mode. Turning the right hand wheel adjusts exposure with shutter time or with ISO value. You can switch between these two by pressing the righthand wheel as a button.

aburkefl@gmail. Posted at 2015-6-20 23:52
To really make it work better, we apparently need ND (neutral density) filters to keep some of the l ...

Thanks aberkefl and giant for the confirmation. Also I think my flicker is caused by rotor blade shadows - makes sense either taping off the lens or adding a lens hood - if they are around. The electrical tape solution is the simplest.

Any ND filters and polarising filters available for the P3P other than cracking the lens itself and making your own? The lens does not screw off without force by the look - I ain't going down that route.

Spare Wheel Posted at 2015-6-21 05:48
Thanks aberkefl and giant for the confirmation. Also I think my flicker is caused by rotor blade sh ...

Can't speak for the Advanced version - I have a P3 Pro. Mine screws off. I bought a 3D-printed lens cover and I thought it would provide enough grip that I could screw the thing off. Didn't work.

Finally, just washed my hands thoroughly, dried them thoroughly, grabbed the front of the camera gently - after having temporarily replaced the gimbal brace - and it came off without too much trouble. The threads are very small. It looks like anything else you screw back in there is going to take a lot of caution to avoid cross-threading.

I'm awaiting batteries (supposed to be delivered Monday) and some filters. The guys I ordered them from got my order but I haven't yet heard anything about shipping. Anxious to try some ND filtering.