UPDATED 25JUN2015 by AUTHOR:  In reviewing my flight logs I mispoke in my original post regarding mobile devices used on 3 flights with Phantom 3 (P3) and one with Inspire 1 (I1) on 20JUN2015: I only used an iPad Mini 3 when flying the Phantom 3 and I used an iPad Air 2 for one long-range flight with I1. I have corrected my write-up to reflect this.  Also, I flew P3 twice on 24JUN2015 - once with iPad Air 2 with flawless HD Link live video to distance of 7,496 feet and once with iPad Mini 3 with greatly improved, but still problematic live video to distance of 4,596 feet.  See my update post below on these two flights and recommendations on hardware and procedures for getting best video performance with 1.2.6 firmware on P3 Pro and iOS mobile devices.

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I flew my Phantom 3 Professional three times yesterday (20JUN2015) in two different locations after upgrading the firmware to 1.2.6 and something has seriously changed for the worse with regard to Lightbridge Live HD Link video stability on my iPad Mini 3 (with up-to-date iOS 8.3 software and no background apps running).  The live video frequently froze, went black, pixelated, etc. even when the P3 was only 5-20 feet away!  Hardware decode was turned on in DJI Pilot app General Settings (4 dots) menu on both the iPad Air 2 and the iPad Mini 3.

Please note that I performed a full IMU calibration at home, and compass calibration at each location.  These don't impact video, but just additional info.  I tried both automatic and custom manual channel selection with three different, low-interference channels at the second location with no video link improvement.  I also tried turning video caching on and off, with no positive impact.  I have flown in both these locations many times in the past, including with the previous firmware, and have not experienced such issues. Also, and this is important, I flew my Inspire 1 at the second location using my iPad Air 2 and the same version of the DJI Pilot App, and the Lightbridge Live HD video from the Inspire 1 was "flawless".  In fact, I flew my Inspire 1 up to 4750 feet distance and a total of 27,000 feet in one 16-minute flight with only a single blip in the video link, which occurred when I yawed 180 degrees at the 4750 foot distance.  The fact that the DJI Pilot app video was perfect when linked with the Inspire 1 on the same day in the same location, indicates this is probably a firmware issue and not related to the latest update of the DJI Pilot app.  On the plus side, it suggests a later firmware update can fix this issue as I believe the Inspire 1 and Phantom 3 are using essentially the same Lightbridge HD Live View hardware.

On a positive note - I had zero issues with VPS, which was ON the entire time I flew. I am not seeing any VPS instability through multiple-minute hovers at 3 to 8 feet, or any altitude drops that others have experienced with this firmware version.  Even with 15-17 mph gusty winds at the second location, the P3 flight and camera performance was stellar.  Unfortunately, I must rely on mostly LOS camera angle setup since the video link is now completely unreliable.  

Hopefully, a future firmware fix can correct this bad HD Link video problem without breaking some other functionality.

Also, I FINALLY resolved my non-level horizon issue with the P3 - and the fix lasted through all three flights at both locations including multiple 360-degree turns in both directions, and camera tilts up and down. The tilted horizon issue was solved with an extended chilling of the P3 and battery for one hour in my refrigerator followed by an immediate IMU calibration and gimbal auto calibration. This was after performing an earlier 30-minute chilled P3 IMU calibration and auto gimbal calibration that did NOT fix the tilted camera horizon.  During the second attempt, the P3 beeped throughout most of the IMU calibration progress, the camera pointed nearly straight down until the IMU calibration got to 90% and there were IMU and compass warning messages until the final minute or so of the IMU calibration when the camera snapped up to a perfectly-level, straight-forward position, the beeping stopped, and the IMU calibration completed (93-100%).  Also, the lens was completely fogged over with condensation during most of the IMU calibration.  But it worked.  Now that I finally have a level camera horizon (and contrary to my previous practice), I will not be performing any more IMU calibrations after future firmware updates, unless I notice IMU sensor value issues or flight instability issues.  

I had the same problem. Enable Hardware Decode under general settings.

my p3p first upgrade 1.2.6 failed
Second success
app 1.1.2 ,

ipad air

cwhitters Posted at 2015-6-22 08:47
I had the same problem. Enable Hardware Decode under general settings.

I failed to mention: Hardware decode was activated for all three flights. It didn't help with the video link problems I was experiencing after update to firmware 1.2.6.

After having many problems with DJI's firmware updates, I am seriously thinking of getting rid of my phantom 3 (sale it) and get 3DR Solo, they have much better customer support. If the Solo crashes due to a firmware malfunction, they they will replace it. So if anyone is looking for a good dearl ($1000 for p3 pro) then hit me up. It has never been damaged, just the firmware update problems.

I have the same problem, after updating the firm 1.2.6, my p3p.
Every day that I turn gives me the same message "Aircraft Warning" and asks me to calibrate the IMU.
He has sometimes restart the p3p resolved, but sometimes not.
Also the image pixelated freezes, and is delayed.good thing is that the horizon is perfect, but ever had to do trim.

Any solution? I do not want IMU error in flight and fall.

P3P Firmware 1.2.6 upgrade and the Lightbridge View stability has definitely  decreased since then.   Also the drifting concerns that others have reported.   

I'd rank the issue severity and the priority for having it resolved in this order...
#1 VPS
#2 Lightbridge
#3 Drift

janibgud Posted at 2015-6-23 03:23
After having many problems with DJI's firmware updates, I am seriously thinking of getting rid of my ...

I am pretty well fed up being a beta tester myself, Top it off with the fear of the solar flares and multiple crashes, injuries and such, I to keep flipping back and forth as to whether to sell my p3 or not,  I was going to sell my p2 plus,  I am sure glad I didn't. I have grounded and ungrounded my p3 about 3 times in a month. I have it  grounded until next update, if it doesn't function then at 100% its out of here.

On top of the software problems, I was totally flipped when I looked at the hardware layout of the p3 compared to the p2 the p3 of coarse is completely integrated into one board esc.s and everything.
lots of different voltages and current flows all over the board. crossover and ground loop potentials, I would think would be much harder to control.

I should have bought an inspire,  I may buy one yet or heaven forbid I wait until the inspire 2 comes out , and I am stupid enough to rush out and buy it,  I will not buy the inspire if it is not modular either. If there were any other systems out there with equivalent tech that worked, with better support I would buy it. Until something happens here I am done stick a fork in me.

I experiencing the same issues with new P3 PRO...unstable HD viewing.When I use auto take off it goes up then lands.GPS height on he app stays the same the the aircraft is going down.I did all of the above tech support did not answer back after some dialogue.Waiting from the place I purchased from amazon to respond.I have a P3 advanced that work flawless under same conditions.
Tim

hi guys , i have the same problem but i think the problem is beacuse of the over heating which is happening in the p3 , am i right ?
beacuse in indoor flying i didint see this problem but in outdoor flying after 14   or 15 min , the live hd view actually is so bad and is just stocked pixels , how can i solve this problem ?

info@nabil.ir Posted at 2015-6-24 03:05
hi guys , i have the same problem but i think the problem is beacuse of the over heating which is ha ...

There are multiple issues with HD Link right now.  If your mobile device overheats because of use on hot day with direct sun on the screen, that can cause the HD Link to become totally unusable - I have that problem with my iPad Mini 3 when it starts getting hot. But this overheating effects everything on the iPad Mini 3 - other apps included. In addition, many P3 pilots (what percentage - who knows) using Android devices are reporting that their Android devices overheat within minutes of starting DJI Pilot app.  This may be a separate problem with the most recent update of the DJI Pilot app for Android devices.  Or, it could just be the more generic summer heat problem.  iOS devices and many Android devices also have a maximum operating temperature of 95F.  Even when the ambient temp is in the 80s, if direct sunlight is hitting the screen, the device can reach temperatures well over 100F in a few minutes.  That's why I always use a sun hood on sunny days regardless of ambient temperature.

The problem I'm having after the last 1.2.6 firmware update to my P3 Pro is that even when my iPad Mini 3 is reasonably cool, the HD Link video is freezing, pixelating, and blanking out.  And that is with Enable Hardware Decode turned on in General Settings and also trying multiple manual channels in HD Image Transmission Setting Menu.  Hell, it happens when the P3 is only 10 feet distance from the Remote Controller. What percentage of pilots are experiencing this problem? - who knows. (A poll on this forum indicates 60%, but folks that are having problems tend to speak up more than folks that aren't having problems.) This appears to be a new firmware-related problem.  Not everyone is seeing it, which, I'm sure, makes it hard for DJI to diagnose root cause.

I am also having problems with HD video link on the pro after 1.2.6.  I have had over 60 flights before the fw update without a glitch.  First flight after the install, after about 10 min the video blanks, freezes......  I have been using it with an updated ipad mini 2 and iphone 6.  I contacted tech support and the sent me the generic , "send you unit in for repair!"  I live in Florida, so all my flights prior were in a hot environment.  Now it has been hotter over the last week, but I think its a combination of heat and updated firmware taxing the processor.   I did get a flight in last night for over 10 min without a glitch.   

Same problems with video here. Reported on multiple threads.

david.p.mann@ea Posted at 2015-6-24 20:14
There are multiple issues with HD Link right now.  If your mobile device overheats because of use  ...

actually david tou are completely right , you know , others have the same peoblem but they are not even amatures to understand what to do , i think here we can say to dji to fix it , i will thanks you if you find any sole notice me
info@nabil.ir
thast my email , thanks

On 24JUN2014 I flew P3 twice at the same second location referenced in my original post above - once using an iPad Air 2 and once with an iPad Mini 3 - and experienced greatly improved HD Link live video in both flights.  In fact, with the iPad Air 2 I experienced flawless live video - no freezes, pixelation or blackouts until I got out to a distance of 7,496 feet from home point!  At that point, which was farther than I have ever flown before, the video froze for 1/2 second and I got a Weak RC Transmission warning message. I immediately turned the P3 around and the video blanked out for 1/2 second.  Crap.  But it came right back and only froze for an instant twice as I flew back from 7500 to 5000 feet away.  For the rest of the return flight home the live video was flawless. Wow!  Total flight time was 13:30 minutes. Altitude for bulk of flight was 250 feet. At end of flight back the back of iPad Air 2 was warm, but not hot.

So, With fresh battery, I switched to my iPad Mini 3, and attempted to retrace the exact same flight path to compare performance with this iOS device.  Imgot much better video performance than I did four days earlier at the same location with the same hardware setup, but it was problematic.  At 4000 feet distance (6:30 min into flight) video started to pixelate every few seconds; at 4550 feet distance image blanked out twice in a few seconds, so I turned P3 around at 4596 feet (7:38 min into flight), image continued to pixelate worse and worse the entire return flight including when it was 20 feet in front of me.  Total flight time 14:03 min.  Altitude for bulk of flight was 250 feet.  At end of flight the back of iPad Mini 3 was hot.

On both iOS devices, WiFi was ON, cellular was ON, no apps other than DJI Pilot app were running, 128 gb memory, iOS 8.3.
P3 Pro info:  firmware 1.2.6, IMU calibrated twice after firmware update, camera gimbal level throughout both flights except for 10-20 seconds after each yaw maneuver, snap-on prop guards, PolarPro ND 4 filter
DJI Pilot app settings (both devices):  Enable Hardware Decode ON, Custom Image Transmission Setting Channel 20, video transmission rate 4 mbps, Video Cache set to "Recording"; Auto Cleanup Video Cache OFF, 4K recording mode, map caching ON
RC Controller: antennae parallel and pointing straight up with wide flat sides aimed at P3; adjust body position throughout flight to maintain this orientation particularly at distance.
Ambient conditions: 90 degrees F, 70% humidity, flights between 6:30 and 7:30 pm, partly sunny/cloudy: wind speed 5-9 mph.

This was the same location, hardware and Pilot App settings as when I flew on June 20th for final flight and experienced horrible, unusable live video with the iPad Mini 3 - pixelating from first minute of flight.  
My best guess for why video performance was much better on this flight at beginning, but then started deteriorating at 6:30 minutes in to flight:  temperature on 20JUN was 95 dgrees and it was much windier with 13-17 mph winds and earlier in the afternoon.    I think the DJI Pilot app stresses the iPad Mini 3 to point it heats up (much more so than iPad Air 2) and the max operating temp of both iOS devices, according to Apple specs, is 95 degrees F.  So, I think, at 95F on 20JUN, the iPad Mini 3 was on the edge of thermal degradation from the moment it was turned on, and more direct sunlight and running the CPU-intensive DJI Pilot app put it over the edge almost immediately.  On 24 JUN, when the temperature was "only" 90 F, the iPad Mini was initially OK, BUT 6 minutes in to flight the DJI Pilot app had heated the device to its max. stable operating temperature.  The iPad Air 2, on the other hand, has a faster processor and, apparently, can handle running the DJI Pilot app for extended periods without overheating, provided you keep it protected from overheating due to exposure to direct sunlight.  I think the Enable Hardware Decode may actually only be meaningful when using the IPad Air 2 and do nothing when using the iPad Mini 3.  But I'm just guessing.  Perhaps Tahoe Ed or Autumn from DJI could comment on this.

CONCLUSION:  Stable live video is possible with P3 Pro and firmware version 1.2.6 with the right hardware and software setup. For me, I will fly only with iPad Air 2 in temps above 85F. I was able to achieve rock-solid, stable live video performance by selecting a low-interference fixed image transmission channel (20). However, I know from experience that I will need to keep the iPad Air 2 out of direct sunlight  in temps above 90F, or it will overheat and completely shut down.  If this happens, I don't panic, because I know I can still control the P3 with the RC, and I can always trigger a RTH using the RC dedicated button and resume control at any time. I may also try flying with the iPad Mini 3 after pre-chilling the device in ice cooler with a blue ice type cooler.  Then chilling it again after each flight.  I am further convinced that the iPad Air 2 is the better, more reliable device to use in hot weather, as I also flew a 16-min flight with it on 20JUN with my Inspire 1 with a sun hood, when it was 95F, and the live video was flawless for that flight out to 4750 feet max distance.

david.p.mann@ea Posted at 2015-6-26 10:19
On 24JUN2014 I flew P3 twice at the same second location referenced in my original post above - once ...

I can also confim with 1.2.6 my video feed issue is related to the temperature of my iPhone 6 Plus. When I originally noticed the problem, I contacted DJI support and they recommended enabling hardware decode. I thought it fixed the issue but now it starts to degrade after a few minutes of use in the sun. It works fine at night or in cooler temps. Thanks to all on this forum for help. I'm now 0-2 with DJI support.

now i am sure it is beacuse of the temperature , thanks to guys who helped me

I'm looking to upgrade my iPad to an Air2 for use with my P3 Pro. I was using it with my iPhone 5s. I've notice that in wide open spaces; beach, fields etc the video on the iphone is flawless. The problem I have is when I'm working on jobs for clients and inside built up areas in towns or cities. Both recent shoots have been close to buildings and housing developments. Both have had video blackouts happening even when I'm right next to the P3. If I look at the signal graph there is little or no interference showing. There must be an issue somewhere.

PaulSimisterPho Posted at 2015-7-6 18:11
I'm looking to upgrade my iPad to an Air2 for use with my P3 Pro. I was using it with my iPhone 5s.  ...

The DJI Pilot app is very CPU intensive, so iOS devices with older processors, such as the iPhone 5s, would be subject to overheating, which may cause CPU throttling and video degradation.  The iPad Air 2 has the fastest processor of all current iOS devices (A8X), which has a 40% faster CPU and 2.5 times the graphics performance of the A7 processor in the older iPad Air (and the iPhone 5s).  

However, if you are seeing video blackouts when the iPhone is relatively "cold" and when it is very close to the RC, it may suggest a video signal interference issue.  You say the noise graph shows little interference. That's actually unusual in a developed area with businesses and housing developments - lots of wireless routers, security cameras, baby monitors, etc.  Watch the noise graph for several minutes and watch for intermittent large spikes on any of the channels - be sure to avoid any of those channels.  The iPad Air 2 is my go-to mobile device now - just flew another couple 6000+ foot max. distance flights this weekend with my P3 Pro with smooth video, no blackouts and no pixelation.  But there may be location-specific challenges that will cause problems with any mobile device.  

You may want to borrow a friend's iPad Air 2, install the DJI Pilot app (with their permission), and test it with your P3 Pro to see if it provides a better video experience for you.

These are the steps I take to get fluid, reliable HD Link video:

1) RC antennae parallel to one another with wide, flat sides facing the P3 Pro at all times. So, if P3 Pro will be out in front of you at some distance, the antennae should point straight up; however, if the P3 Pro will be directly overhead, antennae should point straight out parallel to ground. Proper antennae position is more important the greater the distance between the P3 Pro and the RC.
2) iPad Air 2 is protected by a sun hood (on bright sunny days) to prevent thermal shutdown due to overheating caused by direct sunlight on iPad display.  Remember, if you DO experience a thermal shutdown of you iOS device, the RC is still controlling the P3 Pro; use the RC sticks to fly the P3 Pro and you can still activate RTH using the dedicated RC button.
3) Power on RC, iPad Air 2, start DJI Pilot app, and turn on P3 Pro battery.  Calibrate P3 Pro compass and iPad Air 2 compass (if requested).
4) Shut down all other background running apps on iPad Air 2 except for the DJI Pilot app, of course. Do NOT use any screen recorder apps, such as Shou, as these can cause video lagging and blackouts.
5) In General Settings, turn Enable Hardware Decode ON (this is IMPORTANT).  FYI - I also set Video Cache to "Recording" and Auto Cleanup Video Cache OFF, and it hasn't caused any video issues, thus far.
6) In the "HD" menu (Image Transmission Setting menu), set Channel to Custom, and watch noise graph for several minutes.  Select a manual channel between 13 and 20 with the least amount of noise that also does not have any intermittent large noise spikes.  
7) Set Video transmission rate to lowest setting (4 MBps).  This will lower HD Link live video resolution slightly, but the lower resolution is also less taxing on CPU, max. range is increased, and you can achieve higher frame rates. For video monitoring and shot setup, it's better to have high frame rate, stable HD Link video at slightly lower resolution than lower-frame rate, stuttering, pixelated, higher-resolution video.
8) Make sure the RC antennae remain facing the P3 Pro; keep changing your body position and antennae tilt, if necessary, to keep wide flat sides of antennae pointed at P3 Pro.  This is more important the further the P3 Pro is from the RC.
9) Note: I do not put my iPad Air 2 in Airplane mode or shut WiFi off.

- Dave

david.p.mann@ea Posted at 2015-6-22 10:18
I failed to mention: Hardware decode was activated for all three flights. It didn't help with the  ...

Could you explain what the Hardware Decode means? I see nothing in my app, nothing on my Android Tab 4. Is it an ipad issue?

i have only a few flights with my P3 cause of the long time at DJI Service but i never had APP problems with the Air2. I restart the Ipad before flight, i turn off wifi/bluetooth etc.. and i use a smaller USB cable that will not interfere with the antennas. I also put the ipad mount farer away from the antennas. hardware decode on. Antennas 90 degrees up. I also reinstalled the APP, not just updated it.

Thanks David.
After reading your post and some other info from other groups, I've been and purchased an iPad Air 2 today. Just getting it set up and waiting for the skies to clear to give it a test
Appreciate your feedback on this.

Just looking in the app now and cannot seem to change image transmission from auto to custom? Am I missing something?

PaulSimisterPho Posted at 2015-7-7 21:24
Just looking in the app now and cannot seem to change image transmission from auto to custom? Am I m ...

You do need to be linked to a powered on RC and P3 to access this option. Like a lot of app options - this one is not accessible/changeable just playing with the DJI Pilot app. As someone that owns both an Inspire 1 and a P3, I've also noted that the DJI Pilot app maintains separate settings for each aircraft (or these are stored in non-volatile memory in the RC).

Also, I only have iOS devices, so I don't know if Android version of DJI Pilot app has custom channel capability in HD Transmission Setting menu.

Thanks. I've also read that European users cannot change because of legalities with frequencies.