Brand new fly more combo with air unit installed on Hifionrc f7 w/ 55a esc (dji ready),t-motor f60 pro 3 and frsky xm + receiver. Goggle and air unit both on firmware 1.6, both with voltage above 15.5v. Output power settings do not change results. Black box shows gradual oscillation in gyro then immediate power pulse/twitch to all motors without any stick input.   If air unit RX/TX pads disconnected, the problem goes away completely. Wirh other air unit installed on a completely different setup it is same results:  with analog Vtx there are no issues. I have tried firmware upgrade / downgrade from 1.4, 1.5, 1.6. All transmit power levels and even changed from betaflight firmware to emuflight with same results. At this point I’ve destroyed 2 quads over this issues and am losing faith in the quality of the dji equipment and certainly will be looking for a full refund of the purchase.

Additionally I have tried every “work around” including removal of memory cards, pid changes, etc. again let me make clear that I can replace air unit with my analog caddx camera and rush vtx and problem goes away. So it is not my setup.

Update...I was mistaken. It wasn’t an RX/TX issue. It was a power issue. Once I took power away from FC and moved to a simple diy 12v regulator (lm7812 with .33uf cap and .1uf cap) the problems went away and unit works as expected. How pathetic that dji or FC mfg or even the useless “fpv know it all” and other so called gurus couldn’t say to use a $3 part to save all the aggravation and hundreds in destroyed quads as a result. It all goes back to the click bait money made and poor dji customer service. All equaling more buyers remorse. So to everyone using the fpv air unit...DO NOT USE WITHOUT A 12V EXTERNAL REGULATOR REGARDLESS OF WHAT THE FC MANUFACTURER AND OTHERS SAY!!! YOU WILL REGRET NOT USING IT FROM THE START!!!!

DJI has no control over what the flight controller manufacturers do. Some manufacturers are not clear whether the BEC with the right voltage has enough current. I alway buy flight controllers with a connector for DJI not because I have anything against soldering, but because it’s the best bet that it will work properly. The iFlight v2.1 Succex-D F7s have worked really well for me. Had a Kakute F7 that did not, but think it was a bad ESC that lead to a damaged flight controller.

I can say after a weekend of testing 6 diff flight controllers (some dji ready and some not) paired to 6 different esc sets and using 2 dif air units.... every single one exhibited problems running direct from FC built in regulator. Without live testing with a scope (little difficult since only happens in flight) I can easily say it is either excess amp draw of the air unit or electrical back feed in the FC. Either way it’s on dji. The various manufactures that make air unit controllers are only ensuring they meet listed spec requirements.  So it could be the air unit specs are wrong, but again that is a dji issue. Regardless, a simple notation to use an external BEC solves all of the “what works and what doesn’t”. It retains the pleasure that I should have gotten from my $900 purchase, and saves hundreds on crashed equipment as a result.

And to clarify, here’s what was used in test. All verified on analog using same built in regulator and all worked great. Once on dji all went to crap. However when I went to an external BEC, the dji equip worked as expected

iFlight succex f7
Speedybee f7 (bt version)
Hifionrc f7 pro2
Matek f405
HGLRC 722 HD
Matek f411

IFlight 50a/ 40a
HGLRC 60a/50a
DALRC 50a/60a

As you see I don’t fly junk equipment. Dji is a pack of greedy SOBs out to make a quick buck off all of us. If you promote the item for freestyle users with documents to back it...... Then know your product and tell it straight. We should not have to “trial and error” after all the money they expect for their products. What are we paying for if you can’t use it because all your remaining  equipment is trashed due to their product. If it needs an external BEC to guarantee its success, then say it and no one would have an issue . Instead it’s more profit to lie and trial and error all the way to our bank accounts  

Buy a reliable FC like the Holybro Kakutef7 HDV that was designed from the start to work with the DJI system.  Good gear designed for the specific purpose saves aggravation.  

The last thing I want is to defend DJI, especially because of how DJI treats its users in this forum, in which if it ever communicates it is to put a cut and paste message, always the same, that does not say anything
  But to what we are going, if you do not bother to read a DJI manual, where voltages and amperage are clearly reported, you do not bother to read a FC manual, where you will most likely find information on the Amps provided
If you do not know how to mount things, you should not blame others, because the fault is yours

The FC manufacturer could be blamed for not documenting their FCs correctly, or not providing the proper amp, but I find no reason to blame DJI

Just want to add I haven't had a single issue with Hobbywing G3 FC which IIRC was made before DJI FPV system was released - some manufacturers actually deliver what they specify. And yeah there's tons of people online recommending to just use an external BEC, so I'm sorry you had issues but you clearly need to google how to google