Hi Guys!

I'm sharning the knowladge I've gadered during some weeks of reasearch on how to switch to manual mode to get a good effects from pocket 2.
Some of the examples and text is a copy paste from different sources. Please let me know what you think. At the end I'm not pro so I'm sure I'm wrong in some places.
Any corrections to below are more than welcome and expected.

Additional gear (I'm hardly using recorded sound that's why proper mic is not on the list) :

1. Phone connection: Do-it-all handle or cable (usb-c to usc-c for andriod, usb-c to lithning for apple)
Warning: using usb-c cable with android device will force charging the phone from camera. Battery drain is super fast (20-30min recording). It did not test how heavy is the DIA. With apple devices it's not an issue as usb-c to ligning cable does not charge iphone.

2. Selfie stick with tripod: my suggestion: dji extension rod (allows you to control camera from stick) + polarpro tripod. very light and powerful setup.
Note: I've seen people also using gorilla tripod + phone holder + OP2 hanging on phone connector, but I some how do not trust that the OP2 can hold much shakes like that before fall of from the phone.
From my perspective tripod is not a must for OP2 unless you do not plan to shoot any timelapses. But trust me, it's a huge waste if you'll not be able to capture sunset or sunrise.

3. Set of ND filters (ideally with polarizers): 04, 08, 16, 36, 64
Polarpro has a nice set I'm using it now, but there are some 2 or 3 alternatives on the market.
I'll explain later why you need them (like really need them if you want a good video )

Camera settings (they are overall easy to find in the app)

1. Antiflicker: auto
- you need to set it before activating pro mode!

2. Pro mode: enabled
- this will give you access to manual settings of exposure

3. Color profile: d-cinelike
Note: only if you plan to color grade in post (which I highly recomend), if not then stick to standard

4. Resolution: as high as possible
- Warning: if you are editing on ipad you will not be able to transfer any 4k files with fps higher than 30, therefore I stick to 2.7k. Check if your device can handle 4k in higher fps rates before recording.

4. Frame rates:
- 24 or 48 (for slow motion only - to be slowed down 50% when ediitng): for US (NTCS in general)
- 25 or 50 (for slowmotion only - to be slowed down 50% when editing): for Europe (PAL in general)
- Personaly live in Europe and I slow down everyting that I shoot, only sometimes I keep a normal speed, so my go to is 50fps
- Slowing down the video gives it more magical look and will reduce the shakes from the camera

5. Shutter speed:
- always set your shutter speed to 1 / 2x fps. (e.g. 50fps = 1/100 shutter)
- this is important to get the natural look of your video - I will not go further into the details here, but trust me stick to the rule (180 rule) and if you whish google for details on why you should

6. ISO: as low as possible (at the end is simple: you just need to pick the correct ND filter):

- for daylight I stick to "auto max 400"
--- important: here is where the ND filters will come into play. You will notice that when using low iso with correct shutter speed (point 5) your images will be highly overexposed (there is a camera indicator for that or zebra on your phone - option name: overexposer alert)
--- when the camera indicates exposure +1 use ND 04 (it has -2 stops correction). ISO will go up to 200 (giving you additional exposuere stop and putting your exosure to correct value)
--- when the camera indicates exposure +2 use ND 08 (it has -3 stops correction). ISO will go up to 200 (giving you additional exposuere stop and putting your exosure to correct value)
--- and so on... why I'm not using the exact +2 / -2 correcttion and ISO 100? Because if you for example turn around it might turn out that the exposure you need to correct is to high for the filter you've choosen. You still get good quality with ISO up to 400. Meaning if you choose ND filter with correction of -3 on overexposure of +1, it will be then compensated by ISO. I think it's better to add this 1 extra stop from ND rather than to change it every 5 minutes.
- note: I'm not professional so apologizes for any kind of wrong nomenclature.

- for night / late evening: "auto max 1600"
--- no ND filter required (unless exposere indicator says differently)
--- high quality mode: enabled (only for night shooting! it does not give you anything during day - does not increase the bit rate. It only have some noise reduction, which during day light might not be good for your video). Note that high quality mode is possible only for fps lower than 48, so slowmo in low light might now be that great.

- General info on ISO:
"doubling the ISO number gives an increase of 1 stop, while halving gives it a decrease of 1 stop. For example, switching from ISO 100 to ISO 200 doubles the sensor's sensitivity, producing a 1 stop increase. Moving from ISO 800 to ISO 400 is a 1 stop decrease. Most cameras let you change ISO speed in increments of 1 stop. For example, switching from ISO 100 to ISO 200 doubles the sensor's sensitivity, producing a 1 stop increase. Moving from ISO 800 to ISO 400 is a 1 stop decrease. Most cameras let you change ISO speed in increments of 1 stop"

7. White balance: custom to get the nicest colors
- note: you can keep in auto during strong daylight, the camera will do quite decent job. For other light conditions I recommend to go to custom
- 1000 – 2000 K Candlelight
- 2500 – 3500 K Tungsten Bulbs, for night city
- 3000 – 4000 K Sunset and Sunrise
   -- 3000 – 4000 K (for neutral col. during sunset or sunrise)
   -- 5500 – 9000 K (for warm col. during sunset or sunrise)
- 4000 – 5000 K Fluorescent Lamps
- 5000 – 5500 K Flash
- 5500 – 6500 K Daylight
- 6000 – 7000 K Midday
- 6500 – 8000 K Overcast day
- 9000 – 10000 K shade or claudy

  
White balance additional info (please refer to above for specific values):
Daylight – the camera usually adds warm tones when this preset is selected. So it is best to use this preset when the sun is bright enough as otherwise, it can cast a blue colour in your photographs.
Cloudy – the camera adds slight warm tones to the images when the sky is completely covered with clouds because the light on overcast days is a bit cooler. There are times when shooting sunset or sunrise may not reproduce the vibrant colours in your pictures, similar to what you see at the location. You can use this preset, so it adds warm reddish tones to your photographs.
Shade – the camera adds warm tones to the images as otherwise, photographs shot in the shade using auto white balance may end up having blue tones. Also, if you are looking for warmer colours in daylight, you can use this white balance preset.
Tungsten – the camera adds cool tones to the images as the tungsten light usually adds warm tones. So using this preset adds cool tones to bring down the bright yellow or orange colour casts these lights create in a scene.
Fluorescent – the camera adds warm reddish tones to the photographs since these lights emit cool light.
Flash – the camera adds warm tones to the image as the light from a flash is cool. Use this preset only if the flash is your only source of light. If not, you will need to use custom white balance settings


8. Focus:
- I was so far was happy to shoot with continious autofocus but be aware that it sometimes fails and you will need to point the subject you want to have in focus.

Couple of gimbal movements and "story telling (in general I suggest to keep the gimbal in tilt lock mode):
- note: this section is most chaotic

Gimbal moves:

1. Push in - walk towards the scene - good entry move to establish location and show landscape

  

2. Pull out - walk away from the scene - good exit move to close the shooting from the scene

  

3. Round - use active track and move around the person or subject

  

4. Rise up - show scenery and subject

  

5. Reavel - show subject from the other object - good for transitions

  

6. Tilt up / down - use for anything interestning above the scene like trees

  

7. Low mode - shoot for example the foot of a person while walking on the beach

9.  remember about camera angles. I personaly love to shot on low angle (childs perspective - it gives this nice magical and power feel of the person you are filming)
https://petapixel.com/2015/09/22/8-camera-angles-from-the-world-of-cinema-that-can-help-improve-your-photos/

Story example and shots:

  

If you know you’ll be visiting the Eiffel Tower in Paris, for example, you’ll want more than just a shot from the top. Here’s an example of a list you might make for this specific experience:

  

  

1. Establishing shot of the Eiffel Tower from street (Push in)

  

2. Shot of the base of the Eiffel Tower (Rise up)

  

3. Shot of purchasing your ticket (Over the shoulder camera - rever to link)

  

4. Shot of taking the elevator to the top (Push in)

  

4. Panning shot from the top overlooking Paris

Cheers guys!

Thanks for the insight!

Information and insights are really valuable. Thanks for sharing, karol.m. Cheers!

Nice.  Very detailed information.

What a brilliant summary of getting the most out of the pocket !    Nice job.

Thanks for this!

Unfortunately best image quality you do get at a maximum of 4K30P (24P, 25P and 30P). When setting the camera to 50P or 60P bitrate is automatically decreased, which in the end comes down to a less detailed image. Just so you know it.

Another fact at 50P and 60P the MIMO app is unable to track subjects and so the pocket 2 is more suited to be used at a lower framerate of up to 30P only.
This needs to be addressed by a firmware update IF the hardware allows it.

To me these things are that I have mixed feelings over the Pocket 2.

<quote:>3. Set of ND filters (ideally with polarizers): 04, 08, 16, 36, 64 </quote:>

Minor correction (sorry if I'm nitpicking): one number should be 32, not 36.

Also, according to some other discussion on the forum (and investigating some other websited), there might be additional filters that could be useful. For instance, ND1000 filter for timelapses on sunny days and a light pollution filter if you need to shoot star-filled skies at night.

Other than that, I'll have to admit your post seems to be very through and detailed. You really seem to have done some investigating here. I'll have to read it further and practice with those tips, will probably get way more out of my Pocket 2. Thanks for the post :-)

Thanks for the tips. Thanks for the LUTs. Now it's time for me to practice before going to Yellowstone National Park!