UPDATE - Thanks for all your input in order to reduce stuttering/jerkyness in the side of the video of the OA4. I have testet alot based on input from you, and best result is 4K, 60 fps. 200-8000 in shutterspeed, ISO 100-12600. I'll keep working on minimaze stuttering for next motorcycle seson.

I also can comfirm going under 200 in shutterspeed makes the EIS struggeling to stabilise the video, specialy in low light.

I would like to go with 4K 25 fps in order to get smaler file size and more light in to the camera when shadow and low light.

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Love the OA4, in all aspects, except there is a lot of stuttering/flickering when filming from driving car or motorcycle – see video.

  

Never had any stuttering with Drift Gohst S or GoPro 10.

   

Doesn’t matter if it is 1080, 2,7K or 4K and 25 fps. If fps raises to 30 or 50 the shutter decries and at 60 fps there is very little shutter. I want to go with 4K, 25 fps due to smaller file size and more light in shadow and darker enviroment.

Testing H264 and H265, no difference.

4K 25 fps shutter 100-8000

2,7K 25 fps shutter 100-8000

What to do to avoid stuttering / flickering / jumping picture?

not ghosting that people talked about in 60FPS.  

sdxccard is a general one?  defaulted of the camera out of the box would work perfect, if not then get with DJI  team here see what they can do send them a short file to evaulate

Fishycomics Posted at 11-3 03:46
not ghosting that people talked about in 60FPS.  

sdxccard is a general one?  defaulted of the camera out of the box would work perfect, if not then get with DJI  team here see what they can do send them a short file to evaulate

Thanks for replying.

Sd card: Scandisk Extreme PRO, 256 GB, XC1, V30, 3, A2, - Could it be XC1 problem?

Unfortunately, it’s a by product of a slow frame rate. The posts going by move too fast so you are seeing the gap between each frame. To try and disguise this, people use a slow shutter in order to cause loads of blur so that it ‘appears’ smoother. Trouble is, with a slow shutter, the stabilisation stops working properly.

Action cams are designed more for fast shutter speed to get stabilisation and smooth footage in action shots.

30fps might look slightly better but 60 FPS will likely fix it. (Or 50)

In the cinema, shots are very much planned with movement kept to a minimum at 24FPS. Huge cameras are generally put on large gimbals and they move the camera with the subject, using a shallow depth of field so that the background is out of focus so judder doesn’t matter. Sometimes though, they mess up and judder wrecks the film.

60FPS in 1080p will look better than 4K in 25p because of the amount of movement that you are videoing. 25FPS can’t resolve that amount of movement so it is normally done with a load of motion blur to make it look action packed.

For your purpose, you don’t want action packed because you lose detail with all of the blur,  so you want a high frame rate with a fast shutter. That will cure it.

Before every video that I make, I try to work out whether I want the relatively more blurry look of 24p with movement and GREATLY restrict camera movement, a more realistic looking 30fps with a fraction more movement or 60fps for fast movement. If there are lights, in the UK, I use 50fps instead of 60. I like the look of 24 or 25p with motion blur but not great for running around, so I choose my frame rate accordingly or else, you can get judder.....

Iancraig10 Posted at 11-3 05:11
Unfortunately, it’s a by product of a slow frame rate. The posts going by move too fast so you are seeing the gap between each frame. To try and disguise this, people use a slow shutter in order to cause loads of blur so that it ‘appears’ smoother. Trouble is, with a slow shutter, the stabilisation stops working properly.

Action cams are designed more for fast shutter speed to get stabilisation and smooth footage in action shots.

Thanks for reply.
I think you are absolutly right about your recomented settings and I'll make a test to see if 4K 50 fps is working or maybe go with 1040 50 fps, in order to reduce file size.
Thanks for sharing.

Iancraig10 Posted at 11-3 05:11
Unfortunately, it’s a by product of a slow frame rate. The posts going by move too fast so you are seeing the gap between each frame. To try and disguise this, people use a slow shutter in order to cause loads of blur so that it ‘appears’ smoother. Trouble is, with a slow shutter, the stabilisation stops working properly.

Action cams are designed more for fast shutter speed to get stabilisation and smooth footage in action shots.

Thanks for reply.
I think you are absolutly right about your recomented settings and I'll make a test to see if 4K 50 fps is working or maybe go with 1040 50 fps, in order to reduce file size.
Thanks for sharing.

Try shooting in 4k and reduce to 1080p in the render….. great quality plus a zoom feature in post with no loss of quality!
4K to capture detail in picture.
60fps to capture more detailed movement.

Iancraig10 Posted at 11-3 11:22
Try shooting in 4k and reduce to 1080p in the render….. great quality plus a zoom feature in post with no loss of quality!
4K to capture detail in picture.
60fps to capture more detailed movement.

I've been using 4k50 FPS with a shutter speed of 200 in combination with an ND8 for some time. This gives you some motion blur, which makes the image a little quieter at the edge, but the center of the image remains razor sharp, and the image stabilization also works to some extent with a camera on a helmet. I set the ISO to 100-1600, but you could also go up to 3200 if necessary. Sharpness -1, NR -1 at ISO Max 1600 and 0 at ISO Max 3200.

Iancraig10 Posted at 11-3 11:22
Try shooting in 4k and reduce to 1080p in the render….. great quality plus a zoom feature in post with no loss of quality!
4K to capture detail in picture.
60fps to capture more detailed movement.

Great idea abouth shooting in 4K 50 or 60 and reduce to 1080 in render, I'll do some test.
Thanks for sharing :-)

Andreas Dueck Posted at 11-3 16:35
I've been using 4k50 FPS with a shutter speed of 200 in combination with an ND8 for some time. This gives you some motion blur, which makes the image a little quieter at the edge, but the center of the image remains razor sharp, and the image stabilization also works to some extent with a camera on a helmet. I set the ISO to 100-1600, but you could also go up to 3200 if necessary. Sharpness -1, NR -1 at ISO Max 1600 and 0 at ISO Max 3200.

Sound like  a good setting, I have no  ND filter, bud will use shutter speed 200-8000.
Thanks for sharing :-)

Fast shutter is less noticeable at high frame rates and so is much less of a worry. One day, everyone will use high frame rates and we’ll all wonder why people insisted on motion blur and slow frame rates for 100 years!!!

I bet even cinema films will eventually move over and change their video techniques ...... it always takes them forever because of costs. Studios don't want to buy new cameras ......


Broadcast TV in USA is 30FPS but many people miss the fact that it is in fact interlaced, which means two half frames are shown within 1/30th second. As far as movement goes, this is 60 half frames per second. (Every other line). In the UK, 25FPS but interlaced is 50 half frames every 1/25th second.

So we are seeing 50 or 60 pictures per second on TV. Not full pictures so HD is 1080 cut to 540 lines twice every 1/25th or 1/30th second. This gives smooth movement.

Camera people use all of the lines once. That's called progressive video. So we see half the number of flashes of the picture, but all of the lines in one go. So movement is recorded less well but picture quality in each frame is very high.

So using 50 or 60FPS makes sense for video on TV or computer. For cine showing .... 24FPS. Most of us aren't watching on a project which gives a proper 24FPS (although they STIL don't fully mask judder)

You need to be a little more careful about moving the camera at 25 or 30FPS. Some people don't see judder. Others (like me) are very sensitive to it and for me, many films are wrecked by it.
I often use Canon or Sony Mirrorless cameras that don't give 4K 60P so I choose what to do based on the amount of movement. For mostly still/slow camera video, I use 4K 30P or 24P, but for faster moving stuff, I drop the resolution to 1080P in favour of a high frame rate at 60P.

So I decide before starting, what is more important ..... movement or resolution? Sometimes, I start in say 30FPS for still stuff but because later I'm running and gunning, I switch to 60FPS 1080P and the edit on a 60FPS 4K timeline for render at 60FPS.  The 30FPS footage is slow and looks no different with motion blur and the 60FPS looks smooth. You retain 4K for definition and 1080P rendered at 4K for movement. You get the best of both and it looks good!!

There's more to it actually than just sticking to one setting. It changes the look/feel of your video.

Stick with 4K, then edit later.  With an action camera, there is no reason (in daylight) to record at a shutter speed of slower than 1/120 or else you are asking for problems.

Shooting at night with 1/120 with EIS can give alright results although the image will be darker and you will have to turn up the ISO to get a little noise.

Yes, on an action cam with 4K 60P, everything looks dead smooth in high resolution too!

Hi, Mike copenhagen. Thank you for reaching out. Can you please upload the original files to Google Drive or DropBox for further investigation? Thank you for your cooperation.

DJI Gamora Posted at 11-10 06:18
Hi, Mike copenhagen. Thank you for reaching out. Can you please upload the original files to Google Drive or DropBox for further investigation? Thank you for your cooperation.

Hi - files now on Google Drive.

Looking forward to hear from You.

Mike copenhagen Posted at 11-10 11:27
Hi - files now on Google Drive.

Looking forward to hear from You.

Hi, Mike copenhagen. Could you please provide the shareable link via PM? Thank you.

DJI Gamora Posted at 11-11 08:09
Hi, Mike copenhagen. Could you please provide the shareable link via PM? Thank you.

Link send in PM - looking forward to hear from you :-)

DJI Gamora Posted at 11-11 08:09
Hi, Mike copenhagen. Could you please provide the shareable link via PM? Thank you.

Hi, did you get the link?

Mike copenhagen Posted at 11-14 01:05
Hi, did you get the link?

Hello, there. Sorry for the delay regarding this matter. Please know that I've replied to your direct message. Kindly feel free to keep me posted. Again, I appreciate your patience.

@Mike Copenhagen, what's your Pro Adjustment settings - Noise Reduction and Sharpness? Did you try to keep your ISO to 3200 max? Is Low Light Image Enhancement on or off?

FfoSuy Posted at 11-27 05:04
@Mike Copenhagen, what's your Pro Adjustment settings - Noise Reduction and Sharpness? Did you try to keep your ISO to 3200 max? Is Low Light Image Enhancement on or off?

Hi
I usually go with 0 in Noise Reduction and Sharpness. I have tried -1 in both, not a huge different. ISO, I have tried max 3200, in 50 fps (auto), the stabilize have a hard time to keep up. At 30 fps, with Low Light, Image Enhancement on, the stabilization have a hard time to keep up.
When forcing 50 fps, 200-8000 shuterspeed  and 100-12800  in ISO, if sunny, video looks fine, when low light, it gets greany due to very hight ISO.
I think I could live with the above.
Stuttering in the side of the frame - traffic sign, poles, trees oncoming traffic etc. - looks bad due to stuttering.
At the moment, I do not think the stuttering will ever disappear.

Mike copenhagen Posted at 11-27 05:52
Hi
I usually go with 0 in Noise Reduction and Sharpness. I have tried -1 in both, not a huge different. ISO, I have tried max 3200, in 50 fps (auto), the stabilize have a hard time to keep up. At 30 fps, with Low Light, Image Enhancement on, the stabilization have a hard time to keep up.
When forcing 50 fps, 200-8000 shuterspeed  and 100-12800  in ISO, if sunny, video looks fine, when low light, it gets greany due to very hight ISO.

Yes, you are right. I reviewed some of my footages, and the jittering occurs in the background, and in some cases for no reason at all. It must be the stabilization algorithm, which needs to be improved or fixed. I'll see if I can post some examples here to illustrate this issue later on.

FfoSuy Posted at 11-27 18:44
Yes, you are right. I reviewed some of my footages, and the jittering occurs in the background, and in some cases for no reason at all. It must be the stabilization algorithm, which needs to be improved or fixed. I'll see if I can post some examples here to illustrate this issue later on.

Thanks for the reply.
One observation I did, is the way OA4 is handling the fisheye effect, it does not bend poles traffic signs ect. in the road side as much as other action cameras, witch is good. The backside might be stuttering  in poles, traffic signs etc.  Too me it looks like the stuttering is in the very same area where the fisheye effect in the OA4 is much reduced compared to other action cameras.

Mike copenhagen Posted at 11-29 12:38
Thanks for the reply.
One observation I did, is the way OA4 is handling the fisheye effect, it does not bend poles traffic signs ect. in the road side as much as other action cameras, witch is good. The backside might be stuttering  in poles, traffic signs etc.  Too me it looks like the stuttering is in the very same area where the fisheye effect in the OA4 is much reduced compared to other action cameras.

@Mike copenhagen, yes, good observation although I do see some stuttering at the top frame as well. It could be some lens distortion correction + digital stabilization that's messing up when combined together. So far I've only tried standard (dewarp) and see this stuttering in low light, but not sure if going wide will reduce the effect. Did you go wide in your shots? I was scrolling through your posts but could not find this..maybe I missed it somehow. Sorry, not so obvious in your video footage.

It's not the camera's fault
Blame your brain for not being able to convert the constant steady stream of images into something fluid.
Best to film in the fastest framerate at these speeds and then try to shoot with a shutterspeed that is double your framerate (50fps = 1/100s).
You might need and ND filter for this (very likely).
That's all you can do when your camera is moving steadily at these speeds.

Montfrooij Posted at 12-19 01:41
It's not the camera's fault  
Blame your brain for not being able to convert the constant steady stream of images into something fluid.
Best to film in the fastest framerate at these speeds and then try to shoot with a shutterspeed that is double your framerate (50fps = 1/100s).

Thank you for sharing.
Best experience at the moment is to go to shutterspeed at 200-8000 in order to get the stabilization to work. Fps is 50 or 60, where 60 give less stuttering in the side of the frame, like poles, trees traffic signs.

Mike copenhagen Posted at 12-19 12:05
Thank you for sharing.
Best experience at the moment is to go to shutterspeed at 200-8000 in order to get the stabilization to work. Fps is 50 or 60, where 60 give less stuttering in the side of the frame, like poles, trees traffic signs.

Yeah, for me the stabilization is not an issue (as my drone and pocket 2 have a gimbal), but I have read that indeed.