Does anyone know if the X5 will need ND filters like the X3 does to avoid jello?

I don't think ND Filters can do somtehing against jello . Jello is the unpleasant wobbling of the Camera, you need to balance your props then for example...

Deleted - apols (duplicate)

It uses a lens with an adjustable aperture. No need for ND filters unless it is exceedingly bright

Fiete1989 Posted at 2015-9-17 12:34
I don't think ND Filters can do somtehing against jello . Jello is the unpleasant wobbling of the  ...

I was under the impression that jello is caused by the rolling shutter and has nothing to do with gimbal stability

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rolling_shutter

"Rolling shutters can cause such effects as:
Wobble. This phenomenon (also known as the jello effect) appears when the camera is vibrating, in situations such as hand-held shots at telephoto settings, or when shooting from a moving vehicle. The rolling shutter causes the image to wobble unnaturally"

it shouldn't be an issue on the X5 since aperture is no longer fixed. I'm rather sure that video shot on a regular sunny day at ISO100, f16, 1/100s should be fairly jello-free.

ghoonk Posted at 2015-9-17 10:22
I was under the impression that jello is caused by the rolling shutter and has nothing to do with  ...

Correctomundo!

ghoonk Posted at 2015-9-17 16:22
I was under the impression that jello is caused by the rolling shutter and has nothing to do with  ...

Very correct ghoonk.
     1) Jello-effect can be avoided by using filters in front of the lens.
          but also
     2) Jello-effect can be avoided by using a stabile Gimble.

A super high shutter speed due to excessively bright light can cause the same effect without any shake coming from the gimbal. This is the type of "jello" that is easily corrected with ND filters and an adjustable aperture.

kgarrison@gmail Posted at 2015-9-18 00:47
A super high shutter speed due to excessively bright light can cause the same effect without any sha ...

That is correct.   The X3 aperture is fixed at f/2.8 which is great for low light but means it is easily overrun when there is too much light, forcing you to raise the shutter speed.

When you do this the shutter becomes faster than the sensor so as the sensor scans from top to bottom the shutter might open several times during one pass in very distinct, clear moments.  This is why the image appears to wobble giving the jello effect, the image is different in different areas of the frame.

When a slower shutter the sensor scan is smoothed out and the effect is less pronounced or often gone altogether.

Of course the best way to have a slower shutter in a bright environment is to use NDs.

So yes, using NDs can fix the rolling shutter jello effect.
The X5 has an adjustable shutter so by closing the iris down to f/22 you have reduced the light by 6x compared to f/2.8, which is more than most NDs without the need for any filters whatsover.   

Question it will be important to protect the lenses with a clear filter because we are flying this camera? and if yes what kind we need to use ?

jimhare Posted at 2015-9-17 05:01
That is correct.   The X3 aperture is fixed at f/2.8 which is great for low light but means it is e ...

Jim Can I ask you a favor... I have setting my camera on -1-1-1 when I shout land... I change to 0-1-1 when I shout houses... but that was prior to last up date camera software long time ago and i see that is -1-3-2 what kind is correct.. in log Mahalo

I've just come across this and thought it was pretty pertinent to this discussion... http://havecamerawilltravel.com/ ... stest-microsd-cards

Jacques Posted at 2015-9-18 03:50
Jim Can I ask you a favor... I have setting my camera on -1-1-1 when I shout land... I change to 0 ...

I've gone back to 0 for sharpness pretty much all the time.  There are still a couple of conditions where -1 would be more pleasing but in general I think the little shifts DJI made over time make 0 a good choice.

As for contrast and saturation, it kind of depends on your goal.  In LOG the first goal is to protect highlights and shadows, but the second goal is to create a standard look as a starting point for LUTs.   As long as you aren't blowing out highlights or crushing the shadows, any settings are fine.

But if you are using LUTs then you should dull down the initial image more by having -3 contrast and saturation.   This is because the standard LUT look is much duller than DJI's setting.

So no fixed rules, whatever is working for your situation!

jimhare Posted at 2015-9-17 13:16
I've gone back to 0 for sharpness pretty much all the time.  There are still a couple of condition ...

Thank you so much it all make sense. Mahalo to you.

Great points folks many thanks. I hope we get to see some sample footage  from the X5 soon.

Dave E Posted at 2015-9-18 17:34
Great points folks many thanks. I hope we get to see some sample footage  from the X5 soon.

you need ND filter. The best quality  ( sharpness )is between 2,8 at 11 aperture.
the ideal speed in video is 1/50-1/60 sec..  by hard light ,without SD filter. that is not possible.

Yes, all lenses have a sweet spot around 5.6 - 8 and gradually get softer the closer to f22 you go. ND is a common necessity when shooting sunny exteriors. Also for traditional cinematic motion blur aim for a shutter of 1/50th in uk or 1/60th in US when shooting 25/30 fps. And aim to keep your ISO as low as possible. With the current X3 camera, I set the ISO to 100, shutter to 1/50, UHD at 25fps and in sunny conditions jump between an ND 0.9 and an ND 1.2. So with the ability to control aperture on the new X5 I'd reckon I'll be hovering around f5.6-f8 using a ND 0.6 any higher and you introduce IR contamination into the shadows. Of course if required I'll open up for a shallower DOF and use a stronger ND if needs be. Delighted to have the option with this new camera!

The best thing we could hope for is an auto-ISO setting on these new cameras, similar to what most DSLR's have. For my work with DSLR's, it's incredibly useful if you have a body capable of clean high-ISO.

You can then set exposure values for shutter and aperture manually, and the ISO changes as lighting changes when the camera moves. By having full-manual control sans auto-ISO, it's a shortcoming because although your depth of field and shutter speed won't change, neither will the exposure as the scene moves.

Having an aperture ring will be good for setting up in constant light, and even just shutter priority with camera controlled aperture will be good but for close subjects, where you have large changes in lighting conditions your depth of field may be affected, and therefore a shortcoming.

Auto-ISO with a body capable of clean images at 12800ISO is a must..no more jello.