Zenmuse Z15-GH4 - Replacing the HDMI PCBA Board
3962 8 2016-5-2
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timonroecg
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I replaced this board on the gimbal and thought I'd share a pic and some notes in case you're thinking about trying this.  Here's the original thread where I was getting a solid red light on the gimbal.
** If you disconnect the cables from the board I believe it will void your warranty.  To be safe, contact DJI first and find out.  See C) and D) below for more details.
** Also, if your gimbal is still under warranty I'd recommend sending it in to DJI and let them handle it.  This turned out to be harder than I thought... see below.

The board is located on the bottom of the gimbal.  Here's what it looks like after you remove the 4 screws and take the cover off:

HDMI PCBA Board 2.jpg


To replace the board you first have to disconnect the 4 connecting cables...  from the  pic:

A) Camera Shutter Control Cable - plugs into the camera.  This cable is easy to disconnect from the board and reconnect.  If you need a new one you can find it in the Zenmuse Z15-GH4 gimbal cable pack for $25.


B)  HDMI Cable - also plugs into the camera.  This cable is also pretty easy to disconnect but a little harder to reconnect.  Take a close look at the pic and you'll see that it's folded up and placed between two pieces of double-sided tape.  One piece of tape holds it all down onto the board, the other piece of tape keeps everything together and folded up.  If you take your time you can get this all put back together just as it appears in this photo.  If you need to replace this cable, a new one costs around $50.


C) and D).  These two cables are connected up into the gimbal itself and not sure specifically what they do, other than the obvious.  This is where things go a little difficult, at least for me.  If you look closely at D) you'll see a white plasticy coating over this connector.  First I had to remove this coating before I could disconnect the cable.  Not sure what purpose this coating serves and think if it's removed DJI will void the warranty... this may be the only reason it exists but not sure.  Also, these two connectors, C) and D) were really hard to disconnect... so much so that there might be a special tool for doing so.  I ended up breaking both of them trying to get them off which led to having to solder all of those individual wires within each cable...  think it was a total of 17 wires that needed to be soldered.  If you do find yourself in this situation and need to solder them, make sure you do it outside of the cover.  If the wires are soldered under the cover you probably won't be able to get the cover back on.


Now that you've gotten all 4 cables disconnected, putting the new board on is pretty easy.  Get everything lined up and reconnect all of the cables.  There was thread locker on the 4 screws so make sure you put some back on when putting the cover back on.

Hope this helps and good luck if you give it a try.

If anyone has anything to add, especically about cables C) and D), would be great to hear from you.







2016-5-2
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DJI-Adela
DJI team

Hong Kong
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Thanks for the information!
2016-5-6
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flaviomjr
lvl.4
Canada
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good job man.  I just had to replace one 2 days ago on one of my gimbals.  
2016-5-8
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timonroecg
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hey flaviomjr - how did it go with the two connectors I mentioned above (C & D)?  Sounds like you were able to disconnect them without problem?
2016-5-9
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vantageaerial
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United States
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Thanks for the post timonroecg!  Very timely as I believe my HDMI cable is bad or the entire board and will be replacing in the near future.  Unfortunately this isn't the first time I've encountered this problem.  Last year I had the same issue (no image on monitor just a white screen) and sent the gimbal into DJI for a warranty repair.  I've heard of others that have replaced the board three times due to this issue and at $230 per that can add up quick.  I'm wondering if there is a "good" board and how to identify it (serial number, etc) or if they are all simply bound to fail after time.  If the fix is to just continue replacing the boards...well I've been looking for a reason to pull the trigger on the Connex.
2016-5-10
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funy85
New

United Arab Emirates
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Thanks for the information!

I have Zenmuse Z15-5D III (HD) and i would like to change my HDMI cable and maybe HD/AV board itself.
Anyone can help me for it?

Thanks

2016-7-25
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fansa7e34cd9
lvl.4
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United Kingdom
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funy85 Posted at 2016-7-25 22:10
Thanks for the information!

I have Zenmuse Z15-5D III (HD) and i would like to change my HDMI cable and maybe HD/AV board itself.

strangely enough I was setting up my A3 Pro, Z15-GH4, LB2 on S1000+ and thought I had fried my HDMI board as I too got the dreaded red led on the gimbal after fiddling about trying to get video feed out, and I tried everything I had seen and been told, but still couldn't get it to work so today in desperation I tried to re-update the HDMI board to the latest 1.20 firmware via the assistant and would you believe it my dead gimbal had green flashing led, came back to life and I got video feed out !!!!!!!

in hindsight I would say update everything to latest firmware BEFORE you test the whole system, at least it gives you somewhere to go and you know you havent fried something as a result of a bad update or incorrect cabling
2017-1-1
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Neil Ewins
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United Kingdom
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Same problem i had cable C plastic crack on removal. Underneath there are small raised wedges. To remove the cable pul it upwards at the same time as pulling out. The male plastic pieces can be very carefully taken apart one at a time by lifting the small retainer on each cable. Take care to tape and mark the cable for reference on assembly.
Question when you soldered on the cable was the cable parallel or did any of the cables cross over each other on the ribbon. It is hard to tell when the heat shrink is on bundling them together.
I am struggling to find out the connections. below is a picture of the broken cable clip. The Z15 comes with spare cables and one of these has a ten wire end which can be removed.
2017-2-7
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fansbf647da2
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Neil Ewins Posted at 2017-2-7 23:17
Same problem i had cable C plastic crack on removal. Underneath there are small raised wedges. To remove the cable pul it upwards at the same time as pulling out. The male plastic pieces can be very carefully taken apart one at a time by lifting the small retainer on each cable. Take care to tape and mark the cable for reference on assembly.
Question when you soldered on the cable was the cable parallel or did any of the cables cross over each other on the ribbon. It is hard to tell when the heat shrink is on bundling them together.
I am struggling to find out the connections. below is a picture of the broken cable clip. The Z15 comes with spare cables and one of these has a ten wire end which can be removed.

If you're talking about D in the picture, the cable folds over.  If you look closely at the pic you can see it.
2017-5-30
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