Please let me know what would cause the Disconected not to go away, even though both downlink and uplink signal strength recovered, and it went back at 100%?  Once the app was turned off and back on, the Disconnect was not there any more.  But we should not have to turn app off though?

Would the P4 create a new Home Point at it's current location if one turns off the app and re-sarts it in the middle of a flight?

Is there anything special about a distance of just under a mile? (0.8 - 0.9)  my only major disconnects tend to occur at that distance.

Just to offer some details:

The main concern is that the DISCONNECTED would not go away, even after the signals were at 100%.
The P4 was about 1 mile, over the ocean flying a mission, and the Disconnected would not go away even though both the RX/TX was 100%.
It went away once the app was re-started.

This happened to a friend and I havenot yet seen the logs.

MD_Icarus Posted at 2016-8-17 11:18
Just to offer some details:

The main concern is that the DISCONNECTED would not go away, even after ...

It seems as if it is not uncommon, see here: http://forum.dji.com/thread-61077-1-1.html

Geebax Posted at 2016-8-16 21:40
It seems as if it is not uncommon, see here: http://forum.dji.com/thread-61077-1-1.html

I think those may have been P3's though.  What is the common denaminator if they were not P4's?P3's have different firmware, different app???

What kind of mobile device do you use? Do you use the original usb cable? Actually if everything goes well after replug the cable or restart the app, you don't need to worry too much and the home point won't be reset.

DJI-Paladin Posted at 2016-8-16 22:06
What kind of mobile device do you use? Do you use the original usb cable? Actually if everything goe ...

An Iphone 6 plus.  Latest firmware and app.

From what I understand, the P4 was flying a litchi mission and it got disconnected. The Disconnected stayed though for a few minutes, as the P4 was going away. The RX/TX then came back to 100%, and that is the time my friend decided to turn off the app and re-start it. As soon as the app came back, everything was normal, the P4 was still flying back.  In a waypoint mission, the P4 has the data stored, so it does not need RC control.


But here is the scary part:

When the app was re-started, it shows a new home point over the ocean, where the P4 was located when the app was re-started.
My friend remembered when we had a similar situation a few weeks ago, NOT to Press the RTH. Not sure what would have happened if the RTH was initiated. The logs were sent to Ltchi.

MD_Icarus Posted at 2016-8-17 12:05
I think those may have been P3's though.  What is the common denaminator if they were not P4's?P3's ...

Yes they were, but it seems rthat both aircraft suffer from the same issue, that if the connection is lost, it is not re-established automatically, you have to restart the Go App, and that is not a good thing.

MD_Icarus Posted at 2016-8-17 10:18
An Iphone 6 plus.  Latest firmware and app.

From what I understand, the P4 was flying a litchi mi ...

When Go app says disconnected, does the status bar become grey or red?

DJI-Paladin Posted at 2016-8-16 22:25
When Go app says disconnected, does the status bar become grey or red?

Not sure about this last case, but in my case the status in the upper left of the GO app is red.
Is RED Aircraft and GREY RC?

The Litchi app was also red during this last mission; not sure if they have the same meaning.

Geebax Posted at 2016-8-16 22:18
Yes they were, but it seems rthat both aircraft suffer from the same issue, that if the connection ...

Doesn't this point to a potential firmware issue then, if litchi is having the same problem? I can not imagine two apps having the same bug.

MD_Icarus Posted at 2016-8-17 10:32
Not sure about this last case, but in my case the status in the upper left of the GO app is red.
I ...

Do you keep some screenshots? When it is grey and says disconnected, it means the communication between the phone and RC interrupts.But when the status bar is red, normally it is "Aircraft disconnected" and the RC indicator should be red.

DJI-Paladin Posted at 2016-8-16 22:44
Do you keep some screenshots? When it is grey and says disconnected, it means the communication be ...

Sorry, No screenshots of the Disconnects.

This could be related, but I have also experienced major video transmission issues over the last few weeks. It maybe worse when the P4 heats up. Please see:
Image Transmission Issues

MD_Icarus Posted at 2016-8-17 11:18
Sorry, No screenshots of the Disconnects.

This could be related, but I have also experienced majo ...

Have you tried to clear the app cache or reinstall the app? What's the temperature when you fly your drone?

DJI-Paladin Posted at 2016-8-16 23:23
Have you tried to clear the app cache or reinstall the app? What's the temperature when you fly yo ...

I have cleared the cache, and I had deleted/re-installed GO app in the past.

I have not done so lately, since I am having the same issues using both Go and Litchi.


Last week was a bit hotter than usual for NY; it was in the low 90's with high humidity.

The max. battery temperature though for the Disconnected mission was only 113 0F

Overall, the highest battery temperature the P4 experienced was 136 0F

We received some good news from Litchi Support:

The New home point shown on the healthydrones log is not accurate they said.
I am thinking that healthydrones may assume that the starting point of each flight is the home point??
The original home point was in both flights (original and after the app was turned off and re-started).
This was really scaring us, because one can just imagine if the P4 would create a new Home Point every time you re-start the app in flight and then you initiate RTH!

Here are the pics:

1. DisconnectionPoint; Disconnected Message appeared in Red in Litchi, and it would not go away, even though Signals were back above 90%, based upon memory.  The logs show nothing of course, because there was no connection.

2. The New Home Point was the point when the app was re-started.
The mission ended in point B., which is close to the Actual Home Point.

3. The actual Mission; the Disconnect occured just prior to WP5. The mission continued on, and the signals were above 90%.

4. I usually run a shorter test mission first; the last pic shows the prior test mission flown about 30 days ago.  During that misison, there was no Disconnect.  The logs show the lowest dowlink was 44% and uplink 58%.  This lowest reading occured at WP 10.  But the altitude was much lower than the recent flight, so we are not really comparing apples to apples.

Has this issue - Disconnected and never going back to Connected - being isolated by DJI to some potential faulty component, device, app, or software?

MD_Icarus Posted at 2016-8-18 09:25
Has this issue - Disconnected and never going back to Connected - being isolated by DJI to some pote ...

If it is convenient, you can link your drone with other RC , then fly with your iPhone and Go app. If everything works well with other RC, I'd suggest you to contact our US tech support and send the RC to our service center for diagnosis.

DJI-Paladin Posted at 2016-8-17 22:22
If it is convenient, you can link your drone with other RC , then fly with your iPhone and Go app. ...

It is pointing to the RC then; I saw another thread discussing that the internal battery may have an issue.  Would the streaming video also be affected by the RC? (I am having terrible video after about 5 minute run time over the last 2 weeks).

Can the P3 RC control a P4?  If it does, then will there be an issue re-connecting to P3?

MD_Icarus Posted at 2016-8-18 10:40
It is pointing to the RC then; I saw another thread discussing that the internal battery may have  ...

RC also takes part in the image transmission but battery has nothing to do with live feed. The P3P/A RC can link to P4 and they are compatible if the RC is running the latest firmware.

1. RC (Remote Controller) FIRMWARE is only updated via the DJI GO app while attatched to a Mobile Device with an Internet Connection.  Open DJI App, upper right corner "..." opens a menu for the TOP ROW icons.  Scroll to bottom, look for another "..." and you'll see the VERSION of your APP, Phantom, Remote Controller (RC), and RC SERIAL NUMBER.  Check to make sure all the version are up to date.

[NOTE: if the RC version is called Unknown Version... then you are either not connected to the Phantom -or- an Update was aborted and it should be restarted.  Older Phantoms had a seperate RC Assistant... but the Phantom 4 does not.]

2. DJI Assisant 2 - The Phantom Firmware can be updated in two ways ... Via a connected RC/Mobile device (not preferred) and via a PC/MAC using the included cable.  First, download the App (Not Obvious on the website... scroll to bottom of Phantom 4 support page.  Be sure you get the PC or Mac Version).  Curiously, while called the "DJI Assistant 2" it installed on my Mac as simple "Assistant".  (Some have noted you need to install a DRIVER... but I didn't have to).  Sequence... plug Cable into the Phantom, Turn Phantom on... then Open the Assistant App.  Do not plug the USB in yet.  Make sure you're "LOGGED IN" to the App.  When all is good, then PLUG IN THE USB.  Follow the Prompts.

[NOTE:  If you decide to Update Firmware on the Phantom via the RC/MOBILE Internet... then you may need to first FORMAT YOUR SD CARD.  Why?  The Phantom doesn't have enough free memory to keep a FIRMWARE update in RAM... so it writes to the SD Card.  Other files/directories on the SD CARD, per others reports, can cause a failure.  So Format the card first.]

Some Users have found that the DJI Assistant 2 FIRMWARES don't take... the screen reports that the update worked but upon closing and rebooting the Phantom does not have an updated Firmware.  In these cases, "RESTORE TO FACTORY" then update to the new FIRMWARE.  (You may need to reset the RTH and other settings... I just don't know.)

3. DJI GO APP - Crazy as it sounds, I believe it was my "Logging In" to the DJI GO App was my downfall.  Why?  I have no idea.  When I got home, I deleted the DJI GO App, hard-rebooted the iPad, then Reinstalled.  Seems to link better.  Some have reported of using multiple iPads/iPhones can also cause linking problems... so if you fly with the same iPad all the time, then switch to your iPhone at the beach... you may have linking problems.  Delete/Download/Install DJI GO again.  Less problems.  Then again, once you DELETE/DOWNLOAD... you have to RESET MANY PARAMETERS on the App... I Wish there was a way to keep (entirely) different configuration settings that persisted across several devices...

4. RELINKING - Some have reported that RELINKING the drone to the RC Radio has helped.  Go to the "..." menu, look for RC icon, then choose LINKING REMOTE CONTROLLER... you'll need a Paperclip (small pin) to reset the connection.  Start up everything as normal.  Start the LINKING and a small red dot blinks on the Phantom near the SD Card slot.  Press the light with a small in and the link is re-established.   My signal strength increased slightly.  Slightly.

6. SIGNAL BOOSTER - silly little device you can purchase from various sources which keeps the Antenna parallel and reflects Phatom's signals back to the Antenna.  Signal Strengh didn't change at all but the distance before my first dropout increased by 50%.  Does it work?  I dunno.  It was $16 shipped - I got the Copper one.  It was real copper... some have reported that eBay rip-offs show up with vinyl stickers printed to look like copper/gold.
7. iOS Hardware Decoding - Some have reported that ENABLE HARDWARE DECODING (upper right screen "..." menu, scroll to bottom and choose "..." to pick General Settings) completely messes up their display.  If you're having problems, turn this off.  Then again, if it's off, turn it on.

8. Older iPad Overheating - With our Without HARDWARE DECODING, the video-processing makes my older iPad Mini 2 heat like a frying pan... and the Green Screen comes back.

9.  Cheap 3rd Party Lightening Cables - I'm cheap... I get high-quality Apple-Rip-Offs for around $2 each... they charge nicely, but then you start to Sync or process a LOT of data, they poop out.  Be sure you try different cables, including an actual OEM Apple Lightening USB cable.

If you get the "GREY BAR" Disconnect... then unplug and replug your iPad... or iPhone... give it 20 seconds to respond.  Sometimes (rarely) you have to restart the DJI App after iPad Unplug/Plug...

10. HEAT! HEAT! HEAT! HEAT! HEAT! - Constant disconnects happen more on 2nd/3rd batteries since the 1st battery is as hot as an oven... so is the inside of the bird... you could either cook some stuffing... or you could give the bird 10 minutes to cool down inside an ice-cold air conditioned car.  

[Note:  I could use some advice on keeping the whole system cool (under 37* Celcius)... when it's hot outside ... the bird cannot shed heat fast enough... and flights become very short.  Ideas?!?  Drill vent holes?  Get a custom Phan4 top?  Reflective coatings?  Icebags?  Dry Ice?  Alcohol rubdowns?]



SUMMARY:
A.  If you're using multiple Mobile Devices (iPhones/iPads/iPad Mini) to run DJI GO, see if the DISCONNECT occurs on all devices before anything radical.  Delete, cold restart the device, reinstall, try again.

B. If you end up needing a FIRMWARE update, use the DJI GO App to update the RC - and confirm it worked, then use DJI ASSISTANT 2 to update the Phantom, and if that fails, restore to Factory Settings and Re-Update the Firmware.

C. Keep the Bird Cool!

D. if you use 3rd party iPad Lightneing Cables... have others handy.  They may charge well... but they don't always sync data well...

This had been frustrating but has kept me in the air getting excellent video.  GO PHANTOM 4!!!

I purchased a new RC and I tried it today, but I am still getting only 0.8 mile range over clear ocean terrain. I am getting the same distance using Litchi too. I used to get 1.5 - 2 miles when I first purchased the P4.

It is pointing to the firmware then: 2 RC's, multiple devices.

The video issue seems to be temperature related.  The temperature in NY is in the 80's now, so I am getting less lag and green screens.

Just a guess but after the Live feed options were added, and then Geo ....it was a downhill slope.  My range troubles started after the latest firmware update.

Looking at the logs I see that at 4300 feet the downlink was down to 11% while  uplink was 100%.

Does that point to the P4 then?

I was flying over water close to the shore, and there was no wifi not even cellular data in that area.

Follow up:

I got 1.5 miles using the parabolic antennas today.  I may add the itelite mod soon...

Just to add and follow...I've been flying a course of waypoints.. almost daily..after DJIGO app was updated next flight lost full connection at somewhat close point...the drone finished course and after a bit of fuss I was able to fly and land. I looked at logs and it broke every minute into separate flights..I had to shut down and restart everything 3 times and move location before I could get a clean flight and recording.
The drone did record first flight video.. I had the most clean setup since purchase and only change was DJIGO update. ps I use 1.5.7 on P3S 1.6.8 seems to have issues with camera
Craft was RMA 6 flights ago...I've synced if anyone can jump in - hope that helps!!! cheers Darrin

Is Litchi a completely independent app, or does it rely in any way by the current DJI GO app?

∞ & Beyond

Stay Tuned...

In Progress..

Launch pad scheduled for Friday..