As a new Phantom 3 pilot, I am still learning.


Now I am getting more into editing, and as I also have a GoPro Hero 4, I have started to take the step up from iMovie to Final Cut. Steep learning curve.


I have discovered I prefer to use 4k 24 pfs. D-log and white balance is set to 6000K. From what I can read the best shutter would be 1/50 (2 X)


But as I live in Mexico (hot and very sunny) that shutter is impossible as the shots get over exposed.
I hope eventually to get a ND filter, but to be honest the internet shops here are more limited then US and Europe.


So in the meantime, I would appreciate tips for best video settings. Of course the images get pretty good when everything is set to auto, and I try to fly only in the morning or evening when the sun is less.


But bear in mind I am planing to use the data for editing, I would like to have the settings mostly in manual, as it makes it easier later.

That's pretty much it. You'll need an ND.

Jkeller84 Posted at 2016-10-3 21:18
That's pretty much it. You'll need an ND.

Ok.
But I assume I can put everything else in manual, and let shutter be in auto? Eventually setting it very high.

Any recommendation for the style?

' I try to fly only in the morning or evening when the sun is less.'

At those times of the day, the sun is low in the sky and will quite easily get into view. So they are not a good time to fly at all. If you cannot afford an ND filter, try taking the lens out of a non-polarized pair of sunglasses and tape it on the front of the lens.

hanske Posted at 2016-10-3 16:28
Ok.
But I assume I can put everything else in manual, and let shutter be in auto? Eventually setti ...

Aloha hanske,

     There are two things you might consider.  Number one is the flicker rate (refresh rate) for the human eye is 25 frames per second.  Anything less is going to look jerky when you move, even slightly in some cases.  If you plan to do scenic PANs use 30 FPS at a minimum (and move very slowly).  Many use 60 FPS so they can edit what they want but the jerkiness is still greatly reduced, even with a less than intended quality movement, when you use 60 FPS.  They can sometimes salvage a PAN that had a problem.

     The highest resolution 4K only has 24 and 25 FPS and should be used when you have a very steady shot needing great clarity.  The next lower 4K resolution setting has 24, 25 and 30 FPS.  It has a slightly lower aspect ratio.  The 60 FPS is only available in 1080p and lower resolutions.

     The other tool in the DJI Phantom chest is the Histogram.  It is available in the camera settings Menu (next to the video and photo settings - the wrench).  There are some videos explaining how to use the histogram, but basically you want a sliver going up the right side of the panel at least half way.  If you use an auto exposure setting, you will see the sliver consistently where I said it should be.  But, the Histogram is a good tool for you in that light intensive environment to learn how to cooperate with it demands.

     Hope this helps!

Aloha and Drone On!

Thanks for all the tips.
Appreciated.
I posted a video from my neighbourhood, but maybe I overdid with dark tones saturation?

Your videos will suck without an ND filter.  You're likely to experience that Jell-O effect that everybody complains about also if you don't use the filter.

warloc59 Posted at 2016-10-12 11:46
Your videos will suck without an ND filter.  You're likely to experience that Jell-O effect that eve ...

No, no fear of jello, it has nothing to do with the ND filter. It is caused by vibration in the camera.

Cetaman Posted at 2016-10-3 19:38
Aloha hanske,

     There are two things you might consider.  Number one is the flicker rate (refresh rate) for the human eye is 25 frames per second.  Anything less is going to look jerky when you move, even slightly in some cases.  If you plan to do scenic PANs use 30 FPS at a minimum (and move very slowly).  Many use 60 FPS so they can edit what they want but the jerkiness is still greatly reduced, even with a less than intended quality movement, when you use 60 FPS.  They can sometimes salvage a PAN that had a problem.

Hello guys.
I’m new user of phantom 4 and really really need your help!!!
(Im sorry for my English)
I’m searching forums to find solution for my issue but I cannot find anyone with THE SAME  problem

I have pulsing/blinking grass and trees only when moving on most footage since I bought my p4 (it’s not WB flickering what most users have problem with)
its only happening when closer to grass or trees (water also and even from 30m attitude), only when rotate or move left/right and the blinking looks like overcontrast, also I don’t need to fly- enough to hold the drone and move it with hands and it’s the same so no props.
I know about the sharpness and contrast in style which is really reducing this problem! It looks better when I set  style -2/-2/0) but why is still blinking even if:
- cloudy
- not even bright day
- style -2/-1/0
- WB sunny or cloudy
- colour normal
- no ND filters yet
- ISO/SH in auto
- EV 0 to -1
- anti-flicker 50hz (if 60hz the BULB light is blinking/pulsing)
Looks like anti-flicker is in auto when using manual settings for ISO and shatter (is this flicker can also have the same issue on the day light?)
As I said before the blinking grass is the same as you would set too much sharpness but is still blinking with lower style to -2/-2/0 ( it’s much much les on -3/-3/-1 but is not nice quality like for drone for £1000)
Please help!

fansf87a4431 Posted at 2018-2-13 00:38
Hello guys.
I’m new user of phantom 4 and really really need your help!!!
(Im sorry for my English)

Aloha fansf87,

     Here are two pages of good advice that can help you get better video.



     Hope this helps!

Aloha and Drone On!

Cetacean Posted at 2018-2-13 01:44
Aloha fansf87,

     Here are two pages of good advice that can help you get better video.

Woooow! I really really appreciate!
This is all I need to know and cannot wait to test this out.
THANK YOU!!!