Hi, after some critisim, I need to find out more info on the effect of ND filters,

I use an ND 16, in some of my video's taken on dull days, cloudy, when  I pan around the video seems more flikity.... cannot think of a better desciptor..

Could this be the filters effect, I have an ND 8 also,

Could of course trial and error but its quite windy today thats why I am on the forum during daylight hours
Cheers for any hints.

google search gave me this http://forum.dji.com/thread-48201-1-1.html

but sorry
Fixed white balance - usually somewhere between 5-6,000K
Sharpening, Saturation and Contrast all dialled back heavily i.e -2 or -3
Manual Exposure to achieve a shutter speed "twice" the frame rate - this is where your ND filter is required (your ND16 knocks out 4 stops of light which is quite alot - but I guess the sun shines a lot in California)
ISO as low as you can go and still acheive the shutter speed mentioned above - ideally 100
4K 24 fps if your editing suite and machine can cope with it - else 2.7K - else 1080P


Life is too short to read an understand all this, I need the quick easy to remember version

Ok I did a comparison test, ND 16, ND 8 and Nil I post some results up here,

What I learnt so far is that I need to pan slower ..... (I knew that was the answer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)

stephen_carney@ Posted at 2016-10-16 18:29
Ok I did a comparison test, ND 16, ND 8 and Nil I post some results up here,

What I learnt so far  ...

You have already found the answer. The stuttering effect when you pan is because of the relatively slow frame rate. It is most noticeable at 24 fps, but there is no need to run your frame rate that slow, a lot of people get confused with the PAL/NTSC setting, but it has almost no relevance in this web based world. So I would recommend you shoot at 30 fps instead, then you will get less stuttering.

In bright lighting conditions, the ND filter will allow you to slow down the shutter speed, that will introduce a degree of motion blurring, which will lessen the stuttering effect, but the biggest factor by far is the speed of panning. Watch any professionally shot film, and you will notice that the cinematographer avoids pans like the plague. If they have to be done, they are done either very rapidly or very slowly. The aim is to not let the viewer see it being done.

thank you Geebax, that makes sense

stephen_carney@ Posted at 2016-10-16 09:34
thank you Geebax, that makes sense

I found these videos very informative, watch them and you will understand all, including deciding which filter to use for the lighting conditions, have a look Here

stephen_carney@ Posted at 2016-10-16 09:34
thank you Geebax, that makes sense

Also try these gimbal settings as originally posted by fellow enthusiast 'TK-421'.

His words....

"Okay, so I've had a few well-documented issues with the Phantom 4, but by-and-large, I love this thing. So, I thought I'd share my favourite smooth-pan settings to offset some of my grumblings...


Some of this will be redundant to other videos and "how to" for smooth camera movements with a DJI Phantom, but some of it is info I had to test for myself as I couldn't find good descriptions or tests (Yaw Endpoint, for instance), so here are the settings I've found that give me the smoothest panning/yaw/rudder of the P4 aircraft and most controllable tilting of the camera, making steady cinematic shots much more attainable and controllable:

On the RC:
        • - Lengthen the sticks. This allows finer resolution of physical stick input.
        • - PRACTICE and go easy on the sticks/wheels. No matter the app settings, if you're heavy-handed on the RC, it will show in the shot.

In the DJI GO app:

MC Tab (in "Advanced"):
        • - EXP: Normal: Throttle .4, Rudder .25, F/R .4 (this rudder EXP setting REALLY chills out the pans near center stick)
        • - EXP: Sport: Throttle .4, Rudder .35, F/R .4 (do whatever you want with Sport settings, personally I don't use this mode for "smooth" shots, more for fast high-energy shots)
        • - Sensitivity: Yaw Endpoint - 110 (this is a big one nobody talks about. It limits the "throw" of your pan/yaw/rudder moves, decreasing overall pan speed and essentially increasing the resolution of your pan movements. I have found that no matter how low I go on the rudder EXP setting, the Yaw Endpoint setting is the real key to chilling out the panning on the P4)

RC Tab:
        • - Gimbal Speed - 60 (personal taste, but I've found this setting to work well with the rest of the gimbal settings below)

Gimbal Tab:
        • - Gimbal Tilt EXP - 20 (allows finer resolution around the center detent of the gimbal wheel)
        • - Gimbal Tilt SmoothTrack - 22 (this is MAGIC and nobody talks about it, kinda like the Yaw Endpoint. SmoothTrack automatically smooths out the start and end of your gimbal wheel input. It can seem really spongy at first, but once you start getting used to it, doing nice long sweeping tracking shots or horizon reveals, you'll never turn it off)
        • - Enable Synchronized Gimbal Pan Follow - OFF (this keeps the gimbal centered and lets the P4 aircraft do all the smooth panning work, that way you don't get the sudden camera jerk to the side when trying to do a smooth pan)

There you have it, hopefully this was helpful. I'm sure I'll continue to refine these settings, but I've settled on these numbers after a bunch of flights. Just keep flying and keep testing...and don't forget that you can test a lot of these settings (especially the yaw settings) in the flight simulator. The Yaw Endpoint is especially obvious in the simulator...just bring the simulated P4 close to you, hover, and try timing a 360º rotation with various Yaw Endpoint settings.


Enjoy!"

Thanks Ardvark

thanks TK-421 and thanks again Aardvark