And here's good news as well :



I just ditched 1.8.10 ..... back to 1.7.009 ...

Only difference to his text - is to disconnect USB cable after copying bin file to sd card root.

Its a variation really on the SD card method with RC and AC both on... and tablet showing progress.

Nigel

Kenneth is a P3S forum moderator. If he says it works with the app's blessing, then it's legit.

Let us know if you have your range back.

Just tested 1.7.09 roll back

..... with 1.8.10 I had OK to about 850m and to 900 was there ... getting past 1000m was very hard.

Now I am getting to 1200m OK and out to 1500m with 1820m achieved ... nearly as good as I had before ...

Videos on way !

Nigel

solentlife Posted at 2017-1-24 08:13
Just tested 1.7.09 roll back

..... with 1.8.10 I had OK to about 850m and to 900 was there ... getting past 1000m was very hard.

ill follow this post and try later on my day off! thanks Nigel!


_____
Fly Safe
LeonardoSB

Thanks Nigel, once I get time I will also roll back to 1.7.09 even though I am not experiencing the same degree of problems as others, I am not naive enough to think I will be immune.

solentlife Posted at 2017-1-24 08:13
Just tested 1.7.09 roll back

..... with 1.8.10 I had OK to about 850m and to 900 was there ... getting past 1000m was very hard.

Help, I tried the download and it failed at about 50% ! Pulled the sad card , formatted, reloaded , inserted, and now get this LOUD triple beeping sound that can't be stopped no matter what I do. HELP,

Why do people keep formatting cards ??

All you need do is remove the bin fiile that is in the root of the card - I create a temp directory and move it to there. That's the FW that is on your machine and updates the batterys etc. So good idea to keep just in case.
OK - so now you have a card with no bin file in the root ... just copy the FW bin file of choice to the root. Don't do anything else.

Switch on RC ... Switch on tablet / phone and get it up with DJI tp the screen waiting for AC to connect ...

Switch on AC ... which will now start beeping and doing all sorts while it sorts itself to start installing the FW ... and of course your DJi Go will now connect - but leave it on the white page screen.

Let the AC / RC do its thing for maybe 10mins or so ... you can see the little LED in the top plate of the gimbal mount ... all time its blinking its working ... only when its solid green and Go says 100% is it finished. I found the last 10% was slower and longer than the preceeding 90% !!

Nigel

I am also going to try and downgrade one of my Phantoms and see if the strong interference messages go away.

Follow the video above ... BUT please go to the Youtube page to view it and follow his WRITTEN instructions ....

Nigel

Just so I'm clear, this has nothing to do with using an I Phone with IOS system.  This is only for Android based firmware.  Correct?

Can someone point me to where I find the 1.7.09 download file please?

newman0912 Posted at 2017-1-24 11:46
Just so I'm clear, this has nothing to do with using an I Phone with IOS system.  This is only for Android based firmware.  Correct?

Makes no difference iOS or android - this is the FW of the system not display.

Nigel

Steve J Posted at 2017-1-24 12:11
Can someone point me to where I find the 1.7.09 download file please?

Go to Phantomhelp online archive.

Nigel

FW 1.7.009 ... Go app 2.9.1 ...



Nigel

First, nice job.  I have so many questions.

What was the problem initially with the compass error, and why did you take off when it said compass error?  Wasn't that taking a big chance for a 'fly away'?

How did you fix compass error?  I didn't see you rotate the aircraft to calibrate compass.

If it says 'signal lost' and you disable RTH, how do you continue to fly if there is no signal?

How does it keep returning to a green signal when you go farther than 'Signal Lost'?  Is there 'pockets' of GPS signals?  

Does anyone have info specifically on IOS I Phone setup?  I'm on the latest IOS firmware, but have not seen any problems 'yet' with the RTH function.  Is it possible for IOS to go back to the previous DJI Go revision?  If you can, I have no idea how to do it.

On my phone, I have Google Chrome as an app, but the Apple phone typiclally uses Safari as teh map program.  Not sure if this is the case for the DJI Go app, but maybe that's why I'm not having problem?

Ugh.  This is all so confusing.  I love the Phantom, and I love flying, but I'm getting anxious every time I lift off, worrying more about the problems others have had rather than enjoying the flight.

newman0912 Posted at 2017-1-25 04:28
First, nice job.  I have so many questions.

What was the problem initially with the compass error, and why did you take off when it said compass error?  Wasn't that taking a big chance for a 'fly away'?

The reason for the compass error is because the concrete slab the drone was resting on is loaded with metal re-enforcement.
If you calibrate the compass near to any source of magnetic interference, the calibration will no longer be valid once the drone flies away from the magnetic interference.
Never calibrate the compass unless you are  well away from anything metallic, magnetic or electrical.
The loss of signal warning is a timed event and will not effect controls until the very weak signal is consistant for several seconds.
Never let your fear direct corrective action. Just release the sticks and once you calm down, pull the drone back towards you.

newman0912 Posted at 2017-1-25 04:28
First, nice job.  I have so many questions.

What was the problem initially with the compass error, and why did you take off when it said compass error?  Wasn't that taking a big chance for a 'fly away'?

Where do I start ..... so many questions !

Compass Error :>

OK - I knew this was an anomaly. I started up on top of a concrete slab with Rebars in it. I also have various metallic objects and so on around.
The last thing I would do is calibrate round there !! That would surely cause a flight problem.
The AC wouldn't take off anyway - so I moved location to reboot all to see if I had a problem.
Rebooting at a different location had all fine.
I also know that if I have good setup I can fly through an anomaly like that OK.
There is NO need to recalibrate unless absolutely necessary.

Signal Lost :>
If you watch closely - the signal lost quickly becomes SIGNAL WEAK ... but anyway - even if you cancel RTH in Signal Lost ... the AC will auto start RTH again. If you watch - you can see that happening.
Yes - you have to have confidence in the machine !!

Green Signal :>
Who knows ? But I usually increase height and that seems to get my signal back.
The signal is in 'data packets' .... 5.8 and 2.4Ghz signals are coded so that only that RC and AC can talk to each other. But when another signal on that freq corrupts the data packet - the receiving unit ignores that packet waiting for next uncorrupted packet. The packets are repeated in nano seconds ... so it takes quite a few corrupted packets to cause loss of signal. As soon as a series of good packets arrive at receiving unit - signal is good. There is no reason why such corruption cannot happen close in and no corruption at far distance.

IOS :>
I am an Android user .. I don't like Apple .. so cannot help you there. But I believe Google maps for early Go and HERE maps for later are used on both IOS and Android.

OK - final words ... People I believe are suffering problems not only from DJI poor software - but also from bad advice by various who 'think they know'. Combination of these along with many owners are new to such machines - ends up with calamity.

My goal on here and other Forums is to maybe shed some light ... to try and help ... I'm no expert but I am willing to trial and test to find out reality. I find it sad that DJI has chosen to ignore or just deal out the same old 'flight log' advice ... instead of getting involved and discussing with us the real issues.

Nigel

Nice video Nigel also great explanations as well i like fallowing your threads there helping it out

solentlife Posted at 2017-1-24 22:37
FW 1.7.009 ... Go app 2.9.1 ...

https://youtu.be/28JMpt79TeE

That's crazy-- I haven't tested my max flight range yet as I am still not too confident in the machine, plus I can't just do it from my backyard because I live in a heavily populated area. I am interested to see what my max range is with 1.8.1 though.
Thanks for sharing this.

Starting to feel more ready to go out and fly. DJI GO app is now on 2.9.7 and drone is running 1.7.9

Here's test flight FW 1.07.009 with Go 3.1.1 ..... FW is fine but Go app is crap ! Back to video lag again. Will be rolling back Go apps to find latest but no lag version.



2490m !!

Nigel

Guys ... as long as you have a correctly installed app ... that the AC is calibrated well in good area ... and please don't start calibrating every time you go out !!  You should be able to trust the RTH.

The Smart Auto RTH has nothing to do with your ios or android unit or Go. It is a built in safety function  that you choose to implement via Go. Once implemented your AC has it in memory ... that is RTH on Lost Signal ... RTH height ...

When you start up - the Go app tells you the AC GPS has logged the Home Position. That position is added to the RTH data on the AC and stored till needed.

Now lets take me - brave 'stupid' me ... I push that P3S I reckon harder than most here and I am not afraid to push it beyond reasonable distance. I am confident that RTH will kick in and bring her back.

If the machine was not capable of this - then Litchi basically would not function. I do not use Litchi as I do not want full autonomous flight.

I hope that my efforts and conclusions can help others have a reasonable reliable machine to enjoy. I actually enjoy the tests - we all need a bit of excitement and tension at times.

But you wait when I get my Boosters !! Next country here I come !!

Nigel

I am using DJI GO 3.1.2, before update the latest FW, drone was still controllable, but really bad on video link, video lost when 10m away.
When try to update the latest FW, failed when updating, now cannot fly anymore.
Anyone can advise how to roll back DJI GO 2.91. and FW 1.7.009 to drone?

Louis

Rolled back Go to 2.9.1 from 3.1.1 Attempted to carry out the roll back on my AC to 1.7.09 and update failed! AC just sits there with the beeping constant and no lights. Put .bin for previous version but it now sits at 48% with the constant beep from the AC again. This isn't going well.

I have to be honest ... when I first rec'd my P3S - I tried downgrading my FW because it was failing at short distance. I had no end of trouble and followed every video / post I could find.

My cure in the end was to install LATEST FW .... make sure all worked .... THEN roll back. Paying careful attention to NOT keep formatting cards ... making sure that ALL 3 units were communicating - AC / RC / Tablet.

Many YT videos just have the AC and card acting ... sorry but I found this to be a recipe for disaster. Only when I did similar to the video in first post here - did I have success.

Sorry if some are having trouble with FW installation ... but carrying out as I show above worked fine for me and I know for others.

Nigel

Back to 1.8.xx now. Couldn't put up with the constant beeping so I stuck it in a cupboard with a fan and left it for 3/4 hour. It has now got latest firmware back on. I did take your advise and did not format the sd card, I just moved the existing .bin to my desktop then put the new 2.9.1 .bin on the root. It all seemed to be going well until it reported Upgrade failed and the P3 just kept on beeping!

As I say ... I cannot g'tee or be with you ... I am sorry it did not work out. But at least 1.8.10 is stable and a good FW. I only found it reduced my range. The main item is to not use any Go app that is 3.x.x .... sorry to those who suggest 3.0.1 etc. - but having observed the lag - I am going back to 2.9.1 which is stable, has no lag, does RTH without any silly questions etc.

Nigel

MerlinL14 Posted at 2017-1-26 11:53
Back to 1.8.xx now. Couldn't put up with the constant beeping so I stuck it in a cupboard with a fan and left it for 3/4 hour. It has now got latest firmware back on. I did take your advise and did not format the sd card, I just moved the existing .bin to my desktop then put the new 2.9.1 .bin on the root. It all seemed to be going well until it reported Upgrade failed and the P3 just kept on beeping!

?? 2.9.1 is Go app ... I think you meant 1.07.009 ?

Nigel

Nigel so what is it the app is no good for android I have an ipa file of 2.9.1 if anyone needs IOS but so fare litle issue with IOS  im just passing out the weather and at the same time grabing older firmware
adding them to my desktop

I can only report based on Android ... I don't use iOS / apple in any form.

All versions of Go incl. 3.0.0 and up through to 3.1.1 give increasing video lag. With 3.0.0 I had also disconnects from WiFi during flight.
Go 3.1.2 had severe video problems, Home position changes during flight, in total - it was extremely difficult to have a reliable flight.

Go 2.9.1 so far has shown to be stable, video stream steady with virtually no lag.

Nigel

Could any one tell me how to get the 1.7.94 fw please?. Is it really just a matter of leaving my email address on here for all to see?. I've had the problems with the rth function on the go app. I'm currently on 2.9.1fw with 1.8.10 go app,OK but with limited range, tried 1.5.7 fw downgrade but it aborts, tried 1.7.9fw successful DG but with barometer issue so I will try the 1.7.94 if I can get it, any help would be greatly received, thanks.....john

Johnny ... I think you need to look at your numbers and what they are ...

1.07.009 is FW

2.9.1 is Go App

I don't know of any 1.7.94 FW of numbers anywhere like that.

If you have 2.9.1 Go and 1.8.10 FW ..... then you have a good combo. If you have stock antenna / set-up - then you can only expect the usual up to 500m if CE or up to 1000m if FAA ... subject to environment of course.

Nigek

Sorry Nigel, my mistake, I'm drunk on numbers!.
2.9.1 Go
1.8.10 fw
I've been trying to downgrade to 1.07.009 but I'm getting the "barometer error" message even though the DG is showing successful.From what I can gather the 1.07.094 fw rectifies this issue.I use the argtek 10db mod and I'm quite happy with the results up to the disastrous 3.1.2 Go app. Right now I've got a good combo to fall back to, but feel the need to try to better that if I can, hence this request. I'm really in no rush to change things for now, its just good to have the fw if it betters my system. Thanks for your time and patience. John

I hear others get the Barometer error as well ... I have no idea why. Many others like myself have rolled back to 1.07.009 without trouble.

Nigel