First week flying the P4P after flying the P3P for about a year.  Several thousand images under my belt in the P3P but can't figure this out at all.  Have the histogram nailed in the middle but the images recorded onto the SD card are about 2-3 stops underexposed.  All of them.  Any ideas?  EV is at 0 and was shooting in auto.  Yes I can fix in post (to some extent) but when changing exposure that much in PS / LR it creates all sorts of artifacts.  Any ideas?  

Did a search on this and didn't find anything related to P4Pro.

I thought I saw a thread about this yesterday on here.. Must have been dreaming They were discussing difference in EV reading from AUTO to Manual being quite different. and often a properly exposed image would come out -2.0 on the EV.  I am no camera expert but I too run into this frequently where I will have a scene that is actually overexposed (full of zebras) yet it will say EV is in the negatives

airspace_media Posted at 2017-2-27 18:41
I thought I saw a thread about this yesterday on here.. Must have been dreaming They were discussing difference in EV reading from AUTO to Manual being quite different. and often a properly exposed image would come out -2.0 on the EV.  I am no camera expert but I too run into this frequently where I will have a scene that is actually overexposed (full of zebras) yet it will say EV is in the negatives

I think I found that thread.  He was having the exact opposite problem and was having blown out or overexposed images.  Either one is a pain to deal with although something isn't right.

Upwind Posted at 2017-2-27 20:27
I think I found that thread.  He was having the exact opposite problem and was having blown out or overexposed images.  Either one is a pain to deal with although something isn't right.

Is this problem on jpg and raw images or just one format?

Could you please provide some original images for better assistance?
Please do not edit or rename the original files.

The thread you are looking for is P4P light metre reading. Op spelling mistake, not mine, haha.

My P4P is metering just fine, but others are expeiencing similar to you, in manual.
My suggestion is to forget the EV reading when in manual, use the histogram.  
In manual the EV is just a meter, and only records +/- 2 stops and seems to be, for some, inaccurate.   In auto or aperture or shutter priority it becomes a control, and registers +/- 3 stops, and seems to be accurate.

Are you by any chance shooting RAW with D-Log enabled? What D-Log does is essentially underexpose the sensor and then boost the shadows. This works well for 8-bit video, however if you shoot RAW you will see an underexposed image. If you shoot raw select at least D-Cinelike or None to get a visual representation of what your RAW file will contain. In a high contrast environment it can still be handy to shoot D-Log for stills, as you will get a better idea of how much detail is available in the shadows. In a low contrast situation i would strongly advise against shooting stills in D-Log, as you will inevitably end up with underexposed RAW files.

lienbacher Posted at 2017-2-28 03:08
Are you by any chance shooting RAW with D-Log enabled? What D-Log does is essentially underexpose the sensor and then boost the shadows. This works well for 8-bit video, however if you shoot RAW you will see an underexposed image. If you shoot raw select at least D-Cinelike or None to get a visual representation of what your RAW file will contain. In a high contrast environment it can still be handy to shoot D-Log for stills, as you will get a better idea of how much detail is available in the shadows. In a low contrast situation i would strongly advise against shooting stills in D-Log, as you will inevitably end up with underexposed RAW files.

Color profiles don't seem to effect the DNG for me, just JPGs..

Labroides Posted at 2017-2-27 20:56
Is this problem on jpg and raw images or just one format?

Both.  I'll post here shortly.

lienbacher Posted at 2017-2-28 03:08
Are you by any chance shooting RAW with D-Log enabled? What D-Log does is essentially underexpose the sensor and then boost the shadows. This works well for 8-bit video, however if you shoot RAW you will see an underexposed image. If you shoot raw select at least D-Cinelike or None to get a visual representation of what your RAW file will contain. In a high contrast environment it can still be handy to shoot D-Log for stills, as you will get a better idea of how much detail is available in the shadows. In a low contrast situation i would strongly advise against shooting stills in D-Log, as you will inevitably end up with underexposed RAW files.

I'll give that a shot and see what happens.  I was shooting in D-Log and Raw.  Perhaps I need to change that up and see what happens.  Shot two homes today with it at EV +2.0. and while the histogram was 1.5 bars to the right when I shot, when imported it was 1.5 bars left.  Definitely underexposed.

DJI Mindy Posted at 2017-2-27 23:49
Could you please provide some original images for better assistance?
Please do not edit or rename the original files.

Here are some sample .jpgs that are completely straight out of camera (other than resizing).  

All of those images were shot when the histogram on the Ipad showed it exposed in the center 1/3.  D-Log color and automatic function.  No ND Filters or anything like that .

Upwind Posted at 2017-2-28 18:26
All of those images were shot when the histogram on the Ipad showed it exposed in the center 1/3.  D-Log color and automatic function.  No ND Filters or anything like that .

OK, then it appears that the histogram was quite correct. When setting exposure via a histogram, you expose it such that the brightest parts of the display are on the right hand edge, just short of touching the edge. Try it, and you will find your images are exposed correctly. This is called ETTR, or Expose To The Right, a well know technique in the world of photography. From other reports in this forum, it appears that the EV reading is faulty, and should not be relied upon.

Upwind Posted at 2017-2-28 18:23
Here are some sample .jpgs that are completely straight out of camera (other than resizing).

Could you please upload the original images to dropbox and send me the link?
Please do not rename the files or resizing.
We will need the original images to locate the issue.
Thank your for your cooperation.

Upwind Posted at 2017-2-27 20:27
I think I found that thread.  He was having the exact opposite problem and was having blown out or overexposed images.  Either one is a pain to deal with although something isn't right.

Yes, that was me and still having issues with the first photos being overexposed and then come back to normal ....

airspace_media Posted at 2017-2-28 15:36
Color profiles don't seem to effect the DNG for me, just JPGs..

And they should not affect your DNGs! The color profile will affect the way the image is displayed on the remote and the embedded preview jpg. If the color profile however boosts the shadows (like d-log) you will have a resulting RAW that looks grossly different than you would expect.

It seems to be a different issue in this case though ...

lienbacher Posted at 2017-3-1 11:42
And they should not affect your DNGs! The color profile will affect the way the image is displayed on the remote and the embedded preview jpg. If the color profile however boosts the shadows (like d-log) you will have a resulting RAW that looks grossly different than you would expect.

It seems to be a different issue in this case though ...

Question… I was under the impression that none of the settings- color profiles, d- log, etc. would have any influence on the raw files, as they are files which came directly from the sensor without any adjustments whatsoever. Am I right or not?
zeldon50

Zeldon50 Posted at 2017-3-2 07:46
Question… I was under the impression that none of the settings- color profiles, d- log, etc. would have any influence on the raw files, as they are files which came directly from the sensor without any adjustments whatsoever. Am I right or not?
zeldon50

You are absolutely right. As stated in the post you quoted, it influences what you get displayed while you shoot it plus the embedded preview file. Those have the picture style applied, the RAW file is still the mosaic data from the sensor. This is the reason why the RAW file will look different in your raw viewer of choice than what you see on the screen while shooting if you have D-Log active.

http://forum.dji.com/forum.php?m ... D386%26typeid%3D386

DJI say they will fix the issue soon