ever since update to the new firmware i see a differences in ranges alot of image transmission lost on 2.4ghz. i know 2.4ghz is made for long range travel but before i did the update i never had this issue.. just want to see if anyone is having the same issue.

I am also having this problem.  Crazy

JayOne,

I have seen many state, as you did, that 2.4 GHz is best for long distance. Well, this may be true in some environments, and I don't know what those are, but for me, and others, 5.8 GHz in AUTO mode provides consistently the LONGEST RANGE and the BEST VIDEO QUALITY.  With clear signal line of sight between the P4Pro RC and the P4Pro Aircraft flying in both rural, open countryside as well as in urban settings with hundreds/thousands of homes with WiFi, baby monitors, wireless phone, etc., etc., I can fly out 20,000 to as much as 25,000 feet using 5.8 GHz AUTO mode and still have 4-5 bars of both RC signal and HD signal! In fact, I only turn around because I have reached 50-55% battery level and must turn around in order to make it home safely.  In some of these areas, particularly the urban areas, I cannot get further than 8,000 feet using 2.4 GHz before I lose signal.

Some tips:
1) If you do wish to use 2.4 GHz, go to HD tab in the DJI GO 4 app, put it in Custom mode, and watch the signal levels on all available channels. Then choose the channel with preferably zero signal level or the least amount of signal activity. Then choose the lowest signal transmission rate (4 Mbps).
2) When using 5.8 GHz mode, you can also observe the signal level display to see if there is any interference on any of the channels. If you are in area that has strong 5.8 GHz signal activity, then choose Custom and pick a channel with zero signal level activity.
3) When using 5.8 GHz mode, if you check the signal levels of all available channels and there is little to no signal interference on most or all of the channel (which is the normal situation for me), then chose 5.8 GHz AUTO mode and you are golden. I have been consistently impressed and amazed that I can fly out 20,000+ feet in 5.8 GHz mode and still get high-quality live video with very few glitches, no green screens, and high refresh rates on the live video on my tablet (an iPad Air 2).
4) Regardless of which signal mode - 2.4 or 5.8 GHz - that you use, if you plan to fly out further than a couple thousand feet, then I strongly encourage you to buy a Windsurfer type aluminum parabolic reflector and slip it over your two antenna. I ALWAYS fly with a parabolic reflector slipped over the antenna of my P3Pro, P4, and P4Pro when flying out further than 1000 feet. You can buy these from a number of vendors on eBay for around $30. Cheap investment - doesn't void your warranty - tremendous bang for the buck.
5) To maximize signal strength and video performance with the P4Pro at long distance (greater than 1000 feet) from the RC, you MUST keep the two antenna vertical (pointing straight up to the sky), parallel to one another, with the wide, flat sides facing the P4Pro AT ALL TIMES. If your P4Pro is at distance and you tilt your RC down, left or right for even a second, you risk losing signal connection and the P4Pro will go into RTH after a few seconds. You can often regain connection to the aircraft if this happens by pointing the antenna again in the correct direction and being patient - sometimes it takes 30-90 seconds to regain connection at long distances (and then cancel the RTH, if you wish). BUT, it's best to avoid losing signal connection by being mindful of your body and RC position throughout the entire long distance flight.
6) I do not wish to antagonize any Android tablet users, but in my experience, hands down the most reliable, stable, high-quality live video and rock solid, crash-free DJI GO 4 app experience can be achieved using a high-end Apple iOS iPad.  My iPad Mini 3 has no longer got a beefy enough CPU and graphics chip to give me stable video for long periods, but my iPad Air 2 has NEVER given me a problem. I suspect the Apple  iPad Pros (last year's model or this year's 10.5" model that was just released) will also be perfect, but I have not tested them personally.
7) Finally, it's now summer, and temperatures in many areas are approaching 90-100 degrees. ALL mobile devices WILL OVERHEAT and get unstable in these temperatures, ESPECIALLY if tablet screen is exposed to direct sunlight - even for 30 seconds. Most devices, including Apple iPads are only rated for a maximum operating temperature of 95 degrees F. Tablet temperature can rapidly exceed 115 F (or more) if the screen is exposed to direct sunlight for less than a minute. The first signs of high-temperature instability look a lot like the green screen, stuttering video that I'm starting to see more and more complaints about.  This is my third summer flying Phantom aircraft and I know from experience, that this will be a problem for many as summer temperature continue to rise.

SO, KEEP YOUR TABLET PROTECTED BY A SUNSHADE. DO NOT STAND, IF AT ALL POSSIBLE, WITH YOUR BACK TO THE SUN IN MORNING OR AFTERNOON BECAUSE DIRECT SUNLIGHT WILL STILL BE HITTING YOUR TABLET SCREEN.  

Finally, if your tablet overheats, and even shuts down/reboots, DO NOT PANIC.  Your RC is still controlling your aircraft and you can either manually pilot it home with the RC sticks or press and hold the RTH button on the RC to bring it home automatically. Also, be aware that your tablet overheating and crashing will NOT automatically trigger a RTH if the RC still has good signal connection to the P4Pro. With no stick input, in this situation, it will just hover in place until you initiate a RTH or the battery level drops to level it triggers a SMART RTH.
(Jeez, I've written a friggin book here. Hope it's useful to some of you.)

TheMann58 Posted at 2017-6-16 17:38
JayOne,

I have seen many state, as you did, that 2.4 GHz is best for long distance. Well, this may be true in some environments, and I don't know what those are, but for me, and others, 5.8 GHz in AUTO mode provides consistently the LONGEST RANGE and the BEST VIDEO QUALITY.  With clear signal line of sight between the P4Pro RC and the P4Pro Aircraft flying in both rural, open countryside as well as in urban settings with hundreds/thousands of homes with WiFi, baby monitors, wireless phone, etc., etc., I can fly out 20,000 to as much as 25,000 feet using 5.8 GHz AUTO mode and still have 4-5 bars of both RC signal and HD signal! In fact, I only turn around because I have reached 50-55% battery level and must turn around in order to make it home safely.  In some of these areas, particularly the urban areas, I cannot get further than 8,000 feet using 2.4 GHz before I lose signal.

One of the best posts I've seen here ... Informative, educational, well typed in old school English ... That's what the Forum is for!

Never paid too much attention to HD display and I do not challenge world distance records with my birds. However, I was always under impression that vertical bars represents the strength of transmission on particular channel ... What do you know, learning everyday ...

TheMann58 Posted at 2017-6-16 17:38
JayOne,

I have seen many state, as you did, that 2.4 GHz is best for long distance. Well, this may be true in some environments, and I don't know what those are, but for me, and others, 5.8 GHz in AUTO mode provides consistently the LONGEST RANGE and the BEST VIDEO QUALITY.  With clear signal line of sight between the P4Pro RC and the P4Pro Aircraft flying in both rural, open countryside as well as in urban settings with hundreds/thousands of homes with WiFi, baby monitors, wireless phone, etc., etc., I can fly out 20,000 to as much as 25,000 feet using 5.8 GHz AUTO mode and still have 4-5 bars of both RC signal and HD signal! In fact, I only turn around because I have reached 50-55% battery level and must turn around in order to make it home safely.  In some of these areas, particularly the urban areas, I cannot get further than 8,000 feet using 2.4 GHz before I lose signal.

Thank you for this post. I managed to get part way there under my own steam but you give some very interesting tips that I will for sure be trying out.

Dobmatt Posted at 2017-6-16 21:09
One of the best posts I've seen here ... Informative, educational, well typed in old school English ... That's what the Forum is for!

Never paid too much attention to HD display and I do not challenge world distance records with my birds. However, I was always under impression that vertical bars represents the strength of transmission on particular channel ... What do you know, learning everyday ...

Dobmat,

Thanks for the kind words. The HD tab channel graph is one of the most useful but least understood tools in the DJI GO app, yet it's been part of the app since the P3Pro came out.  You can access this graph at any time during the flight. So, if you start out with no signal interference, but then get out some distance and start seeing signs of signal interference (fluctuating signal bar levels, sudden loss of signal bars, pixellation), you can bring up the graph and check out channels for interference. It's important to note that any physical obstruction in the direct signal path between your RC and the Aircraft (tree, tall bush, house, radio tower, truck driving by in front of you) can also interefere with or completely disrupt your signal connection. These physical obstructions tend to cause both RC and HD signal bars to drop simultaneously from 4-5 bars to zero. In these situations, Increasing altitude or moving aircraft left or right can sometimes restore full signal strenth as the physical obstruction (tree line 400 yards away, for example) is no longer in the signal path.  

TheMann58 Posted at 2017-6-16 17:38
JayOne,

I have seen many state, as you did, that 2.4 GHz is best for long distance. Well, this may be true in some environments, and I don't know what those are, but for me, and others, 5.8 GHz in AUTO mode provides consistently the LONGEST RANGE and the BEST VIDEO QUALITY.  With clear signal line of sight between the P4Pro RC and the P4Pro Aircraft flying in both rural, open countryside as well as in urban settings with hundreds/thousands of homes with WiFi, baby monitors, wireless phone, etc., etc., I can fly out 20,000 to as much as 25,000 feet using 5.8 GHz AUTO mode and still have 4-5 bars of both RC signal and HD signal! In fact, I only turn around because I have reached 50-55% battery level and must turn around in order to make it home safely.  In some of these areas, particularly the urban areas, I cannot get further than 8,000 feet using 2.4 GHz before I lose signal.

Thank you so so much . the information you have provide i would take it consideration !!!!

TheMann58 Posted at 2017-6-16 17:38
JayOne,

I have seen many state, as you did, that 2.4 GHz is best for long distance. Well, this may be true in some environments, and I don't know what those are, but for me, and others, 5.8 GHz in AUTO mode provides consistently the LONGEST RANGE and the BEST VIDEO QUALITY.  With clear signal line of sight between the P4Pro RC and the P4Pro Aircraft flying in both rural, open countryside as well as in urban settings with hundreds/thousands of homes with WiFi, baby monitors, wireless phone, etc., etc., I can fly out 20,000 to as much as 25,000 feet using 5.8 GHz AUTO mode and still have 4-5 bars of both RC signal and HD signal! In fact, I only turn around because I have reached 50-55% battery level and must turn around in order to make it home safely.  In some of these areas, particularly the urban areas, I cannot get further than 8,000 feet using 2.4 GHz before I lose signal.

Which Windsurfer type aluminum parabolic reflector i should buy because it tonz of  different brands.. i want to make sure i buy the right ones

JayOne Posted at 2017-6-17 15:34
Which Windsurfer type aluminum parabolic reflector i should buy because it tonz of  different brands.. i want to make sure i buy the right ones

I own 3 of these:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum ... :g:fbYAAOSwd0BV6Vof

It wouldn't hurt to reset the unit to factory defaults in the Assistant 2 software and try the following combinations to make sure both components are communicating smoothly:

Reset the RC:
* Turn on the RC, and leave the aircraft off.
* Press C1, C2, and shutter and then turn the it off.
* While still holding the buttons, turn on the RC, then the aircraft and relink the remote.

Manually relinking the RC to the aircraft:
* Turn on both the aircraft and the RC.
* Press C1, C2, and the record button on the RC, which will produce a "D-DD" audio queue. This may take a few seconds of holding them.
* While still holding the buttons, press the wheel on the right side of the RC (ISO). The LED indicator on the RC will turn blue and it will constantly beep "DDDD".
* Use a pen to push in the linking button on the aircraft and hold for 3-5 seconds, then take the pen off the aircraft and wait, it will be linked soon.

It would be good to know what mobile device and Go app version you're running. I do apologize if the latter is information I've missed.

TheMann58 Posted at 2017-6-17 07:47
Dobmat,

Thanks for the kind words. The HD tab channel graph is one of the most useful but least understood tools in the DJI GO app, yet it's been part of the app since the P3Pro came out.  You can access this graph at any time during the flight. So, if you start out with no signal interference, but then get out some distance and start seeing signs of signal interference (fluctuating signal bar levels, sudden loss of signal bars, pixellation), you can bring up the graph and check out channels for interference. It's important to note that any physical obstruction in the direct signal path between your RC and the Aircraft (tree, tall bush, house, radio tower, truck driving by in front of you) can also interefere with or completely disrupt your signal connection. These physical obstructions tend to cause both RC and HD signal bars to drop simultaneously from 4-5 bars to zero. In these situations, Increasing altitude or moving aircraft left or right can sometimes restore full signal strenth as the physical obstruction (tree line 400 yards away, for example) is no longer in the signal path.

All comes down to a very basic rule of successful droning: LOS. Practically you'll lost visual tracking very quickly, some 200-300m away, but video feed, all on-screen data (height, distance) and intuition will let you know if LOS is maintained. Any obstruction between the bird and RC and boom, you're at the mercy of RTH!

The reply posted by TheMann58 is accurate, informative, and pretty much super awesome, but can a few others chime in on whether they have experienced a reduction in range since the most recent update? That's what the OP was asking about, and others are curious about this as well.

Dobmatt Posted at 2017-6-22 18:30
All comes down to a very basic rule of successful droning: LOS. Practically you'll lost visual tracking very quickly, some 200-300m away, but video feed, all on-screen data (height, distance) and intuition will let you know if LOS is maintained. Any obstruction between the bird and RC and boom, you're at the mercy of RTH!

well from my understanding that before the update i didn't have this issue with the range.. i know its a lot of things factor into it such line of sight , wifi , cell phone towers and building etc.. i have a stock remote control with no add on..

TheMann58 Posted at 2017-6-16 17:38
JayOne,

I have seen many state, as you did, that 2.4 GHz is best for long distance. Well, this may be true in some environments, and I don't know what those are, but for me, and others, 5.8 GHz in AUTO mode provides consistently the LONGEST RANGE and the BEST VIDEO QUALITY.  With clear signal line of sight between the P4Pro RC and the P4Pro Aircraft flying in both rural, open countryside as well as in urban settings with hundreds/thousands of homes with WiFi, baby monitors, wireless phone, etc., etc., I can fly out 20,000 to as much as 25,000 feet using 5.8 GHz AUTO mode and still have 4-5 bars of both RC signal and HD signal! In fact, I only turn around because I have reached 50-55% battery level and must turn around in order to make it home safely.  In some of these areas, particularly the urban areas, I cannot get further than 8,000 feet using 2.4 GHz before I lose signal.

I have seen this exact behavior just yesterday here in Orlando, FL. It is 90-105 here every day from now till October. I use a Galaxy Tab E and it overheated in very short order, less than 5 minutes. The heat makes it difficult to fly. Thanks for confirming my experience, now at least I know it's normal.

theGrindLab.com Posted at 2017-6-23 05:44
The reply posted by TheMann58 is accurate, informative, and pretty much super awesome, but can a few others chime in on whether they have experienced a reduction in range since the most recent update? That's what the OP was asking about, and others are curious about this as well.

YES! I definitely have experienced a reduction in range since the update!

Lowdspeaker Posted at 2017-6-23 20:53
YES! I definitely have experienced a reduction in range since the update!

I haven't tried since the update. Mine has done this since I first got it.