Hi Everyone.
I have noticed that, when flying in bright, sunny conditions, there is some reflection from the shiny white landing legs, which gives a (slightly) noticeable lighter patch on the resulting video footage (irrespective of the resolution settings).  This has nothing to do with the direction of flight - it occurs at all headings respective to the sun's position.
As the camera is invariably angled downwards, the main body of the craft cannot be the source of the reflections.

Possible solutions which occur to me are:
1)  Lightly sand the legs to a matt finish to reduce reflectivity.
2) Paint them matt black
3) wrap them in insulating tape  ( probably not a good idea - if it came adrift and got stuck in the props!)

As the craft is still under warranty ( it's only 4 months old)  I'm loath to do anything which would jeopardize the remaining 8 months' cover.
Anyone out there got a sure-fire solution?
Or do I need to look at lens filters?
All suggestions welcome.

I've noticed this in the past. If you've not got filters then a set of ND (Neutral Density) filters can enhance the video on the P4 quite dramatically. Allowing for example video to be recorded at 30fps, 1/60th shutter speed. and as near to zero EV value as can be achieved with the fixed aperture lens. Which produces about the best results possible.

Aardvark Posted at 2017-8-22 02:48
I've noticed this in the past. If you've not got filters then a set of ND (Neutral Density) filters can enhance the video on the P4 quite dramatically. Allowing for example video to be recorded at 30fps, 1/60th shutter speed. and as near to zero EV value as can be achieved with the fixed aperture lens. Which produces about the best results possible.

Hi. I note that you're in the UK.   I get back there a couple of times a year. Any suppliers of ND filters you could point me in the direction of?  And model numbers etc?  Cheers!

Aardvark Posted at 2017-8-22 02:48
I've noticed this in the past. If you've not got filters then a set of ND (Neutral Density) filters can enhance the video on the P4 quite dramatically. Allowing for example video to be recorded at 30fps, 1/60th shutter speed. and as near to zero EV value as can be achieved with the fixed aperture lens. Which produces about the best results possible.

A bit of quick Googling tells me that DJI do their own filters - is that what you use?

Blériot53 Posted at 2017-8-22 04:13
A bit of quick Googling tells me that DJI do their own filters - is that what you use?

I use the DJI filters, I purchased mine from Here. Just be sure to read the descriptions, as the P4 is different size than the P4 Pro or P4 Advanced.

On a typically Sunny day I use the ND8 mostly. Cloud cover ND4. And if it were Sunny and brightly illuminated target then ND16. These of course are rough guides.

Aardvark Posted at 2017-8-22 05:23
I use the DJI filters, I purchased mine from Here. Just be sure to read the descriptions, as the P4 is different size than the P4 Pro or P4 Advanced.

On a typically Sunny day I use the ND8 mostly. Cloud cover ND4. And if were Sunny and brightly illuminated target then ND16. These of course are rough guides.

Thanks for the tips - everything helps!

I would recommend you to check the ND filters from here: http://store.dji.com/.

DJI Susan Posted at 2017-8-22 21:18
I would recommend you to check the ND filters from here: http://store.dji.com/.

Thank you for the link

How about painting the legs black with: https://plastidip.com/our-products/plasti-dip/
It can be removed fairly easily if needed.

I'd try some electrical insulation tape first to see if it works, if the props blow it off it will go downwards, not into the props.

Nigel_ Posted at 2017-8-24 08:41
How about painting the legs black with: https://plastidip.com/our-products/plasti-dip/
It can be removed fairly easily if needed.

Hi Nigel. I see that Plastidip (US product) has a supplier here in France, which could be handy.
I wonder what the propellant in the aerosols is?  And the solvent might have an adverse effect on the plastic legs of the P4. That's my concern, as I don't want to do anything to weaken the structure, or indeed void the remaining warranty on the craft.  I've already talked myself out of the black tape idea . I could enviseage that ending in tears, as ever-lengthening ribbons of the stuff unwind like streamers and - inevitably, downdraught not withstanding if a sharp change in direction or attitude occured - snagging a prop with disastrous results.   Call me chicken - I prefer the word cautious ;)

Blériot53 Posted at 2017-8-24 09:56
Hi Nigel. I see that Plastidip (US product) has a supplier here in France, which could be handy.
I wonder what the propellant in the aerosols is?  And the solvent might have an adverse effect on the plastic legs of the P4. That's my concern, as I don't want to do anything to weaken the structure, or indeed void the remaining warranty on the craft.  I've already talked myself out of the black tape idea . I could enviseage that ending in tears, as ever-lengthening ribbons of the stuff unwind like streamers and - inevitably, downdraught not withstanding if a sharp change in direction or attitude occured - snagging a prop with disastrous results.   Call me chicken - I prefer the word cautious ;)

Good question and you are right to be cautious.   

I guess you could ask for the product safety sheet which ought to say, and must be available as a legal requirement, but normally it is hard to understand!

You can also get Plastidip  in ring pull cans for application by brush, so there is no propellant and no risk of overspray.   Obviously it still has a solvent but it is designed to sit on the surface, not to bond with the surface, so that it can be peeled off again leaving the original surface undamaged.  The biggest risk to the surface is probably whatever you use to clean any oil/grease/fingerprints so that the "paint" can stick.

Nigel_ Posted at 2017-8-24 11:35
Good question and you are right to be cautious.   

I guess you could ask for the product safety sheet which ought to say, and must be available as a legal requirement, but normally it is hard to understand!

I've examined the safety sheet on the French website, which gives a list of composants (ingredients). The propellant is propane, which is a fairly standard propellant (as is butane). Not something to spray around if you're a smoker  )   A few of the ingredients are a cause for concern - the one which jumps out at me is Xylene.  This has an adverse effect on all types of plastic I seem to recall from school science (half a century ago!)  I found this list via google, which seems to confirm my fears:
https://www.tedpella.com/company_html/PlasticsChemResistance.htm

Xylene scores N for every listed type of plastic. Just what type the DJI drones are made from, I don't know.   For me, the jury's still out on useage of this product. Have you tried it, or know anyone who has?

Blériot53 Posted at 2017-8-24 12:05
I've examined the safety sheet on the French website, which gives a list of composants (ingredients). The propellant is propane, which is a fairly standard propellant (as is butane). Not something to spray around if you're a smoker  )   A few of the ingredients are a cause for concern - the one which jumps out at me is Xylene.  This has an adverse effect on all types of plastic I seem to recall from school science (half a century ago!)  I found this list via google, which seems to confirm my fears:
https://www.tedpella.com/company_html/PlasticsChemResistance.htm

I've used an almost identical product which I suspect is a rebranded version of the same thing and does have Xylene as a major solvent.  But not on a drone.

Only black substance I have used on my Phantom was a sharpie pen to mark where the gimbal clamp fits on the legs since mine has no indents.  Looking up the safety sheet for a sharpie pen also suggests immediate damage to most plastics!

I wouldn't use any solvents on parts that are safety critical like the blades or arms, but I wouldn't worry about Plastidip on the legs.  I can't say it is definitely safe but it is designed to sit on the surface, not dissolve the surface and bond with the plastic like most plastic paints do.  I have also removed some in the past and it does come off leaving the original surface apparently unaffected.  Maybe best to start with a very thin layer so that the solvent evaporates quickly.

Nigel_ Posted at 2017-8-24 13:49
I've used an almost identical product which I suspect is a rebranded version of the same thing and does have Xylene as a major solvent.  But not on a drone.

Only black substance I have used on my Phantom was a sharpie pen to mark where the gimbal clamp fits on the legs since mine has no indents.  Looking up the safety sheet for a sharpie pen also suggests immediate damage to most plastics!

A thin layer would probably suffice to dull the shine.   For the moment, I may take the alternative option proposed by  Aardvark, of ND filters.   Then if there are no eventual posts from you with tales of woe that bits have started falling off your bird due to plastic failure I'll try some of that paint and throw caution to the winds (pun intended)

Blériot53 Posted at 2017-8-24 13:55
A thin layer would probably suffice to dull the shine.   For the moment, I may take the alternative option proposed by  Aardvark, of ND filters.   Then if there are no eventual posts from you with tales of woe that bits have started falling off your bird due to plastic failure I'll try some of that paint and throw caution to the winds (pun intended)

Not sure how the filters help with the reflections, unless you are adding an extra filter in front of the UV filter, in which case maybe you could just add an empty filter ring as a lens hood to block the reflections reaching the lens?

Nigel_ Posted at 2017-8-24 14:35
Not sure how the filters help with the reflections, unless you are adding an extra filter in front of the UV filter, in which case maybe you could just add an empty filter ring as a lens hood to block the reflections reaching the lens?

That's a thought - but it might restrict the field of view slightly?  Perhaps not enough to matter.

Nigel_ Posted at 2017-8-24 08:41
How about painting the legs black with: https://plastidip.com/our-products/plasti-dip/
It can be removed fairly easily if needed.

Hi Nigel. I've re-visited this thread with an update. Over the winter the sun in the lens problem has not been an issue, but on a recent flight in full morning sun I was mildly annoyed to see the white dot and halo effect, which must be reflections off the landing legs. I was flying directly away from the sun.
SO.  I came back and wound some (Green) insulating tape around the legs everywhere that reflections could reach the lens. This morning's flight, in similar conditions at the same time of day - no halo or white spot.  One test is hardly conclusive, but first results are encouraging,  One end of the tape had come slightly adrift, but not enough to cause concern about prop entanglement. There appears to be no effect on the handling of the craft (3 grams of tape were used).  Since the bird is now out of warranty, I shall probably go for the Plastidip idea next.  Best wishes, R

You could start with a layer or two of plastic primer, this is what is used on fairing and other plastics on a motorcycle before applying ordinary auto paints.

KedDK Posted at 2018-5-3 03:19
You could start with a layer or two of plastic primer, this is what is used on fairing and other plastics on a motorcycle before applying ordinary auto paints.

Yes, I'm open to all options, though I'm moving away from spray-on and thinking brush-on will be easier to manage.

I think you will get i nicer result and thinner layers by spraying it, perhaps merge the methods and use some thinned brush on paint in a airbrush.  

Also i think you could simply make a quick hood by folding a piece of black/dark paper on the camera in a funnel shape, the down side might be if the gimbal get too sensitive to wind resistance.

KedDK Posted at 2018-5-3 05:18
I think you will get i nicer result and thinner layers by spraying it, perhaps merge the methods and use some thinned brush on paint in a airbrush.  

Also i think you could simply make a quick hood by folding a piece of black/dark paper on the camera in a funnel shape, the down side might be if the gimbal get too sensitive to wind resistance.

Adding anything to the gimbal is a bad idea I think. Any imbalance will overwork the gimbal motors

Blériot53 Posted at 2018-5-3 04:29
Yes, I'm open to all options, though I'm moving away from spray-on and thinking brush-on will be easier to manage.

If you are using the plasti-dip then it can be thinned and sprayed, or brushed, but the easiest and neatest will be to dip it, if you can find a suitably sized container that you can get the required part of the leg into without requiring an excessive amount of plastidip.  You wont need to do the whole leg, no point adding more weight than necessary.

There is no need for a primer with the plastidip, it's designed for plastic, but do make sure you have cleaned off all the grease, fingerprints etc.  A bit of dish washing liquid in water, followed by a good rinse in pure water will work if you don't have proper degreaser.

Good luck, we want some photos of the result when you are done...

Nigel_ Posted at 2018-5-3 07:31
If you are using the plasti-dip then it can be thinned and sprayed, or brushed, but the easiest and neatest will be to dip it, if you can find a suitably sized container that you can get the required part of the leg into without requiring an excessive amount of plastidip.  You wont need to do the whole leg, no point adding more weight than necessary.

There is no need for a primer with the plastidip, it's designed for plastic, but do make sure you have cleaned off all the grease, fingerprints etc.  A bit of dish washing liquid in water, followed by a good rinse in pure water will work if you don't have proper degreaser.

I've found a supplier in France, I shall have to send off for it. I'd thought of dipping (finding a suitable container might be a conundrum)  There's a soft foam rubber strip on the underside of the landing legs, I'm not sure if that would be OK with the Plastidip?  If I brushed it on, I could avoid the strips.

Blériot53 Posted at 2018-5-3 07:54
I've found a supplier in France, I shall have to send off for it. I'd thought of dipping (finding a suitable container might be a conundrum)  There's a soft foam rubber strip on the underside of the landing legs, I'm not sure if that would be OK with the Plastidip?  If I brushed it on, I could avoid the strips.

The hard rubber strip on mine would be OK being dipped, the dried plastidip is a bit flexible and rubbery. If you have soft foam then maybe dip it and then either wipe it off, or let it almost dry and then use a sharp knife to score/cut around the foam and then peel the plastidip off the foam.  You might want to test your technique first on something unimportant.

For the container, you can always make a cardboard container, then line it with a plastic bag so that it doesn't leak, pour the unused plastidip back into the bottle.  Or use a too big container and fill the unwanted bits with polystyrene or similar.

Nigel_ Posted at 2018-5-3 08:38
The hard rubber strip on mine would be OK being dipped, the dried plastidip is a bit flexible and rubbery. If you have soft foam then maybe dip it and then either wipe it off, or let it almost dry and then use a sharp knife to score/cut around the foam and then peel the plastidip off the foam.  You might want to test your technique first on something unimportant.

For the container, you can always make a cardboard container, then line it with a plastic bag so that it doesn't leak, pour the unused plastidip back into the bottle.  Or use a too big container and fill the unwanted bits with polystyrene or similar.

SO.  The paint eventually arrived ( several national holidays in May).  I cobbled up a dipping tank to nicely accommodate each landing leg in turn.  Blue Peter arrangement using cardboard, polystyrene, tinfoil and plastic bags.
Whilst dipping the legs I noticed a leak past the plastic bag onto the polystyrene.  This melted instantly. lowering the level of paint in the tank, so the landing legs were not dipped sufficiently deeply. Had to finish the job with a brush.
Appearance is OK, but I'm not sure the result will have the desired effect. Even though the paint is supposedly matt black, it is still shiny. Not had a chance to fly yet (too windy).
At least the rubber coating provides protection for the landing legs should I land on a rough gravelly surface.  The extra thickness however means the legs are a tight fit in the storage box now, and the gimbal clamp will not clip onto the legs unless I scrape off some of the paint.
FINALLY, I discovered a  thread, by chance, just the other day, which seems to clearly indicate that the problem comes from an entirely different cause.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heiligenschein

Ah well, live and learn

Blériot53 Posted at 2018-5-17 06:39
SO.  The paint eventually arrived ( several national holidays in May).  I cobbled up a dipping tank to nicely accommodate each landing leg in turn.  Blue Peter arrangement using cardboard, polystyrene, tinfoil and plastic bags.
Whilst dipping the legs I noticed a leak past the plastic bag onto the polystyrene.  This melted instantly. lowering the level of paint in the tank, so the landing legs were not dipped sufficiently deeply. Had to finish the job with a brush.
Appearance is OK, but I'm not sure the result will have the desired effect. Even though the paint is supposedly matt black, it is still shiny. Not had a chance to fly yet (too windy).

Thanks  for the update , i have had this halo appearing when flying over fields etc and  found ND filters only  reduce it ,   i was about to try the tape option thinking it was the ac reflecting but now  i will try to  use the effect to my advantage or fly from a different angle and direction .

DEUCEDOG Posted at 2018-5-17 11:53
Thanks  for the update , i have had this halo appearing when flying over fields etc and  found ND filters only  reduce it ,   i was about to try the tape option thinking it was the ac reflecting but now  i will try to  use the effect to my advantage or fly from a different angle and direction .

Going back to some of my early footage, with the benefit of this hindsight, I can see that when the sun is directly behind the drone, or within an arc of 20 degrees or so either side, the effect is visible, any greater an angle and the spot disappears to one side or the other.  Like you, I've tried ND filters, but not recorded any success so far as I was not then aware of this phenomenon.

Blériot53 Posted at 2018-5-17 06:39
SO.  The paint eventually arrived ( several national holidays in May).  I cobbled up a dipping tank to nicely accommodate each landing leg in turn.  Blue Peter arrangement using cardboard, polystyrene, tinfoil and plastic bags.
Whilst dipping the legs I noticed a leak past the plastic bag onto the polystyrene.  This melted instantly. lowering the level of paint in the tank, so the landing legs were not dipped sufficiently deeply. Had to finish the job with a brush.
Appearance is OK, but I'm not sure the result will have the desired effect. Even though the paint is supposedly matt black, it is still shiny. Not had a chance to fly yet (too windy).

"Ah well, live and learn."

I think the lesson to learn is: post a photo of your problem - somebody would have explained the cause!

Still, it's been an interesting thread


I often notice this when flying over grass, especially when it is still damp in the morning, essentially it is the sun reflecting off the leaves, but you only see the reflections from the grass in a small area that is exactly the opposite side of the drone from the sun.  Once the grass dries the effect reduces, and by the summer when the grass has lost it's spring shininess I don't often notice it.  Also in the summer the sun is higher so you only see it if looking down, unless you get up very early in the morning.

Update...Been doing some testing with black tape around the front legs and guess what no halo
same flight i remove the tape and the shadow returns so i think this can only be due to the gloss finish in the legs ?  have you noticed any difference since you coated your landing gear ?

DEUCEDOG Posted at 2018-6-15 13:09
Update...Been doing some testing with black tape around the front legs and guess what no halo  
same flight i remove the tape and the shadow returns so i think this can only be due to the gloss finish in the legs ?  have you noticed any difference since you coated your landing gear ?

Results have been mixed. After some further reading I think the phenomenon may be due to this effect:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heiligenschein

And so all my efforts may have come to naught

Blériot53 Posted at 2018-6-15 13:17
Results have been mixed. After some further reading I think the phenomenon may be due to this effect:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heiligenschein

I am not so sure you have wasted your time ?  since adding a non reflective tape i have not seen this anymore ? .... fingers crossed it will continue .
It would be interesting to know if anyone with the obsidian has noticed this ?

Blériot53 Posted at 2018-6-15 13:17
Results have been mixed. After some further reading I think the phenomenon may be due to this effect:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Heiligenschein

I think all those reflections we see is a mix of several things on the shiny white Phantoms, a cite from your initial post:
"This has nothing to do with the direction of flight - it occurs at all headings respective to the sun's position."
If what you found annoying was the halo/heiligenchein it would not be seen unless when the sun was near opposite the target of the shot.
If you did not obtain what you aimed to, at least you now have a Phantom you can recognize from all the others.

Did you get tested the use of black props? - if so what has been your conclusion using those?

If available, try a polarizing filter to cut the reflections. If a "factory" polarizing filter is not available then polarizing film is, which can be cut to fit and add very little weight. you'd be using the same effect that polarizing sunglasses use to reduce reflections from water, car windshields, etc. Polarized light from reflections are ussually "horizontally polarized" I'm not sure of the angle from the gear reflections are but a simple test would be to take your bird outside with a piece of generic polarizing film then view the gear refelctions thru the film by eye and rotate the film various ways to see if you get a reduction in the reflections. If you do, then cut out a suitable piece of film and place it on the camera port making sure its at the same rotation angle that your simple "eyeball test" was. This would be cheap and simple. Never had reason to try this personally on my P4 camera, but its simple and cheap as I said and worth a try.

Vetinari Posted at 2018-6-16 10:29
If available, try a polarizing filter to cut the reflections. If a "factory" polarizing filter is not available then polarizing film is, which can be cut to fit and add very little weight. you'd be using the same effect that polarizing sunglasses use to reduce reflections from water, car windshields, etc. Polarized light from reflections are ussually "horizontally polarized" I'm not sure of the angle from the gear reflections are but a simple test would be to take your bird outside with a piece of generic polarizing film then view the gear refelctions thru the film by eye and rotate the film various ways to see if you get a reduction in the reflections. If you do, then cut out a suitable piece of film and place it on the camera port making sure its at the same rotation angle that your simple "eyeball test" was. This would be cheap and simple. Never had reason to try this personally on my P4 camera, but its simple and cheap as I said and worth a try.

Thanks. As it happens, I do have a Polar Pro kit of filters, including a polariser.
I find them fiddly to fit, with my dithery sausage-fingers, but it could well help reduce the phenomenon produced by these reflections.

KedDK Posted at 2018-6-16 02:36
I think all those reflections we see is a mix of several things on the shiny white Phantoms, a cite from your initial post:
"This has nothing to do with the direction of flight - it occurs at all headings respective to the sun's position."
If what you found annoying was the halo/heiligenchein it would not be seen unless when the sun was near opposite the target of the shot.

Ha yes, my Phantom is certainly unique now
As to the black props, I've been diverted from that idea by the attraction of the new "quieter" props, which I am considering. Not sure if they're available in black?

DEUCEDOG Posted at 2018-6-16 00:36
I am not so sure you have wasted your time ?  since adding a non reflective tape i have not seen this anymore ? .... fingers crossed it will continue .
It would be interesting to know if anyone with the obsidian has noticed this ?

All experimentation is useful - even if the results are negative. It shows us what NOT to do next time

DEUCEDOG Posted at 2018-6-16 00:36
I am not so sure you have wasted your time ?  since adding a non reflective tape i have not seen this anymore ? .... fingers crossed it will continue .
It would be interesting to know if anyone with the obsidian has noticed this ?

I flew my recently-acquired Mavic Pro away from the setting sun yesterday evening, and got the same effect - a noticeable whiter ring on the video. I have to conclude that it's Heiligenschein and not reflections.

Blériot53 Posted at 2018-6-18 21:49
I flew my recently-acquired Mavic Pro away from the setting sun yesterday evening, and got the same effect - a noticeable whiter ring on the video. I have to conclude that it's Heiligenschein and not reflections.

My guess is that now you're aware of this "Heiligenschein", you properly can see it with your bare eyes. I have noticed my own "glory" shadow, walking along fields in low sun.

KedDK Posted at 2018-6-19 05:18
My guess is that now you're aware of this "Heiligenschein", you properly can see it with your bare eyes. I have noticed my own "glory" shadow, walking along fields in low sun.

Possibly    It's an undesirable artefact in video footage though.  Angling the drone away from the line of the sun is probably the best way to avoid it.  Or fly the route at a different time of day when the sun has obligingly moved round a bit

Nd  filtres on the lens