I bought a ND8 to help with the blown out "white" skies but it really isn't making any difference.  I figure I need to get off of auto mode to help with this issue but it is so hard to change the aperture.  After several goes I just give up and go back to auto.  Does it have to be changed via the touch screen which I find very finicky.  Even with the auto take off, I usually have to swipe the screen several times before it takes off.

I am often able to pull back the white skies in post, but sometimes with the affect of the image looking unnatural. I will attach a completely unedited pic to show you what I mean.  There must be a way around this.  And a better/easier way to change camera settings.

An ND filter is only required for shooting video, in order to slow the shutter speed. For stills it is not necessary at all. By all means switch the exposure to manual, then use the left hand thumbwheel dial to alter exposure. You can use the 'e' number setting on the Go app display to judge the correct setting, usually such that the 'e' number is close to zero. If you know how to interpret it, you can switch on the histogram display on your device and use that to get the exposure correct. But the histogram needs some study to best appreciate how it works.

If you are shooting stills, leave the ND filters at home.
Auto/manual isn't part of your problem or the solution.
Getting the exposure right is the answer.

Looking at your scene, the foreground appears to be slightly overexposed.
Whatever metering method you were using is not giving you a proper exposure level.
There's an additional problem because the small area of sky is much brighter than the majority of the scene.

It sounds like you aren't comfortable with camera settings.
I would suggest trying the Aperture Priority auto metering option and let the camera handle the exposure settings for you.

For almost all daylight shooting these settings should get you good pictures.
Set aperture priority mode
Set your ISO value to 100.
Set your aperture to 5.6
If most of your images look a little overexposed like the shot above, dial in a little overexposure compensation.
To do that (and any other camera settings) use the right thumbwheel.
You push it (click, click) to select the field you wish to change.
When the field you want is highlighted in blue, use the thumbwheel to change the EV value to -0.3.

You'll find it's easy to change your aperture with this method too.

Geebax Posted at 1-20 21:05
An ND filter is only required for shooting video, in order to slow the shutter speed. For stills it is not necessary at all. By all means switch the exposure to manual, then use the left hand thumbwheel dial to alter exposure. You can use the 'e' number setting on the Go app display to judge the correct setting, usually such that the 'e' number is close to zero. If you know how to interpret it, you can switch on the histogram display on your device and use that to get the exposure correct. But the histogram needs some study to best appreciate how it works.

I understand normal dsrl photography, so I know how to interpret a histogram.  Because I use ND filters in my still work with my dsrl, I thought that it would help with the drone.
I did try using the thumbwheel whilst I was out in the field this morning as I thought I had read that somewhere, but I was trying to use the right hand wheel, so that explains that.

Labroides Posted at 1-20 21:47
If you are shooting stills, leave the ND filters at home.
Auto/manual isn't part of your problem or the solution.
Getting the exposure right is the answer.

Thanks Labroides.... I've actually been a professional photographer for almost a decade and shoot real estate still for a living.  So I do understand camera settings.  I just wasn't sure how to adjust them on my drone being very new to all this.

I put it in Aperture mode on site this morning, but couldn't figure out how to properly change the aperture. I was trying to do it with the touch screen which was not working too well.

I have been wanting to use exposure compensation but couldn't figure out how to even locate it.  This helps a lot.

So if I am shooting a combination of stills and video is the ND filter still worthwhile?

TracieLouise Posted at 1-20 22:04
Thanks Labroides.... I've actually been a professional photographer for almost a decade and shoot real estate still for a living.  So I do understand camera settings.  I just wasn't sure how to adjust them on my drone being very new to all this.

I put it in Aperture mode on site this morning, but couldn't figure out how to properly change the aperture. I was trying to do it with the touch screen which was not working too well.

Although you'll find many here swearing by ND filters for video, I'm not convinced that they really make enough difference to get excited about in many situations.
I'm a stills shooter and concentrate on stills but when I do occasionally shoot a little video without ND filters, the results are good enough for my clients.
I'd suggest trying both ways and comparing to see what works for you rather than just accepting what someone says on a forum.

For stills, the filters will only force a slower shutter speed.
If a slower shutter speed is OK for what you are doing, then go for it.

I have seen images online of people who are using them for water motion.  I do this with dslr photography but I would question if the drone stays still enough since a tripod is always used in landscape photography with filters.  Will definitely do some experimenting.  Thanks for the advise.

Remember to click/press the right scroll wheel to move through the menu in turn ....    | ISO | Shutter Speed/ | F.stop |
aim for -0.3 EV as start point   

As a pro photographer I always used Auto when  taking images unless I felt it would be better some other way, the point being is to know when Auto doesn't work. The majority of time it does. Whilst on weddings and the like you can use flash to balance exposure properly, with landscape work I have found the only way to get all the image correctly exposed, or nearly so, is to use AEB, and of course to shoot in RAW. Once the five or so images are taken, I combine them with Aurora, just one of may programs of course, and I am more than happy with the results. If not then there is Photoshop, Photolemur and many others.  DO give it a try you will not be disappointed.

embayweather Posted at 1-21 04:24
As a pro photographer I always used Auto when  taking images unless I felt it would be better some other way, the point being is to know when Auto doesn't work. The majority of time it does. Whilst on weddings and the like you can use flash to balance exposure properly, with landscape work I have found the only way to get all the image correctly exposed, or nearly so, is to use AEB, and of course to shoot in RAW. Once the five or so images are taken, I combine them with Aurora, just one of may programs of course, and I am more than happy with the results. If not then there is Photoshop, Photolemur and many others.  DO give it a try you will not be disappointed.

As a professional real estate photographer I shoot HDR almost exclusively and blend in Enfuse before finishing off in PS. I didn’t know we could shoot auto brackets with the drone. That would be amazing.  Even in my landscape work I often HDR. How do you go without a tripod. Is the drone steady enough for multiple exposures?  Is auto bracketing I the camera menu?  

Aerial-Image Posted at 1-21 01:36
Remember to click/press the right scroll wheel to move through the menu in turn ....    | ISO | Shutter Speed/ | F.stop |
aim for -0.3 EV as start point

Thank you. I will.

TracieLouise Posted at 1-21 12:17
As a professional real estate photographer I shoot HDR almost exclusively and blend in Enfuse before finishing off in PS. I didn’t know we could shoot auto brackets with the drone. That would be amazing.  Even in my landscape work I often HDR. How do you go without a tripod. Is the drone steady enough for multiple exposures?  Is auto bracketing I the camera menu?

yes its in the camera menu,  bracket 3 or 5 frames .    and yes with a nd 32 I have shot long exposures over water of  2 seconds . quite often shoot a faster shutter speed frame at waterfalls to get sharper rocks and merge in the longer exposed water from another frame

goldenorfephoto Posted at 1-21 13:46
yes its in the camera menu,  bracket 3 or 5 frames .    and yes with a nd 32 I have shot long exposures over water of  2 seconds . quite often shoot a faster shutter speed frame at waterfalls to get sharper rocks and merge in the longer exposed water from another frame

I found it.  Went out this morning for a quick flight.  Shot 5 shot brackets.  Now to download and see what I got.  Also finally figured out the correct exposure for single shots.

But those who are saying press the thumbwheel to move through settings.  That didn't work at all.  I was still about to change settings just using the touch screen.  Tried both left and right wheels and pressed it etc and it did nothing.

Aloha TracieLouise,

     Aside from the great advice you are getting with this thread, please be aware that your screen protector is part of a broader problem.  If you do not have a screen protector, check to see if your touch screen has an adjustment in the "Settings" menu.  

     The commonality between setting problems and swiping the Auto-Launch slider point to a touch screen sensitivity issue.  The first step is to check to see if two protectors were installed.  Some people forget to remove the protector-protector and end up with two protectors installed on top of each other.  Oddly enough this is easy to do and not notice.  The installation instructions usually point out how many layers are involved.  (A pin or very sharp knife and a magnifying glass used to look at a corner will allow you to see how many layers are present if you did not install it yourself.)

     Touch sensitive screen protectors are also sold with a mat finish.  You will want a mat finish to cut down on glare in brighter conditions.  So if you decide to get a new screen protector with better touch sensitivity, check for these qualities.  Mine work good, but I would rather they work great!

     But still, you are getting great advice here from the contributors on the photography issues involved.

Aloha and Drone On!

Cetacean Posted at 1-21 15:34
Aloha TracieLouise,

     Aside from the great advice you are getting with this thread, please be aware that your screen protector is part of a broader problem.  If you do not have a screen protector, check to see if your touch screen has an adjustment in the "Settings" menu.  

To the best of my knowledge I don't have a screen protector.  I have P4P+ with the built in screen and I removed the standard screen protector they have on there for shipping but I will check the sensitivity settings.  

It's funny you should say glare, as almost every time I have been out it has taken half a dozen swipes to even take off but today I went out and it was overcast and it took off first go.  

TracieLouise Posted at 1-21 15:42
To the best of my knowledge I don't have a screen protector.  I have P4P+ with the built in screen and I removed the standard screen protector they have on there for shipping but I will check the sensitivity settings.  

It's funny you should say glare, as almost every time I have been out it has taken half a dozen swipes to even take off but today I went out and it was overcast and it took off first go.

Aloha TracieLouise,

     OK, this helps.  There is a splash screen setting that looks like an artist pallet.  It is next to HDMI and WiFi.  The three dots on the pallet are indications of how bright the screen setting is.  Work with that and see if touch sensitivity is improved.  (At least that is the way it is with the CrystalSky.)  If the splash screen is different from the CrystalSky, look into the settings for the screen brightness and see if you can get an improvement.

     Hope this helps!

Aloha and Drone On!

Cetacean Posted at 1-21 16:20
Aloha TracieLouise,

     OK, this helps.  There is a splash screen setting that looks like an artist pallet.  It is next to HDMI and WiFi.  The three dots on the pallet are indications of how bright the screen setting is.  Work with that and see if touch sensitivity is improved.  (At least that is the way it is with the CrystalSky.)  If the splash screen is different from the CrystalSky, look into the settings for the screen brightness and see if you can get an improvement.

Will do... .thanks for that.

TracieLouise Posted at 1-21 14:52
I found it.  Went out this morning for a quick flight.  Shot 5 shot brackets.  Now to download and see what I got.  Also finally figured out the correct exposure for single shots.

But those who are saying press the thumbwheel to move through settings.  That didn't work at all.  I was still about to change settings just using the touch screen.  Tried both left and right wheels and pressed it etc and it did nothing.

But those who are saying press the thumbwheel to move through  settings.  That didn't work at all.  I was still about to change  settings just using the touch screen.  Tried both left and right wheels  and pressed it etc and it did nothing.
Try again.
Forget the left thumbwheel because it only handles the camera tilt.
Watch the camera data line on screen when you push the right thumbwheel in (click, click) and you'll see that it turns one of the camera fields blue like the EV field in this example.

Further clicking cycles through the fields.
When the field you want to change is blue, then turn the thumbwheel to adjust that setting.

Labroides Posted at 1-21 17:37
But those who are saying press the thumbwheel to move through  settings.  That didn't work at all.  I was still about to change  settings just using the touch screen.  Tried both left and right wheels  and pressed it etc and it did nothing.
Try again.
Forget the left thumbwheel because it only handles the camera tilt.

I will try that again, but clicking the right wheel did nothing the first time I tried it.  

TracieLouise Posted at 1-21 19:18
I will try that again, but clicking the right wheel did nothing the first time I tried it.

Are you pushing it in?
It's a double action control.
1.  A switch operated by pushing the wheel in
2.  A wheel you turn to make changes

Labroides Posted at 1-21 21:23
Are you pushing it in?

I was pretty sure I was.  Will try again tomorrow. But thanks to everyone's advise, my shooting today was awesome.  SO much better.  Thanks so much.

Only when in manual not auto

Aerial-Image Posted at 1-21 23:55
Only when in manual not auto

What's only in manual and not in auto?

Aerial-Image Posted at 1-21 23:55
Only when in manual not auto

OBVIOUSLY!