As a newbie, I was having trouble flying too fast in the forward direction even in Cine mode, which limits at 6 m/sec. So I designed and 3d printed an adjustable stick stop for the right stick. I now can use the green knob to dial back the max speed while flying, if I need it. The rest of the black part of the 3d print is a lanyard support I designed for flying with my iPad. The arm to the left reaches out and up to the center of mass center of the RC+iPad, for a nice balance. The other lanyard hole is for use when I'm flying with my iPhone. Just an FYI for you out there.

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Hello there JacktheRipper. Thank you for reaching out and for sharing this accessory that you have created for your DJI Mini 2 remote controller. Nicely done and keep flying.

You could modify that to do cruise control so that you could fly slow and accurately for doing hyperlase.

Interesting DIY fix.  

DAFlys... Re: "You could modify that to do cruise control so that you could fly slow and accurately for doing hyperlase."

Great idea, and here's my implementation. Reworked the speed limit block to have push/pull from the adjustment screw, and added a bottom gate latch that's easy to open and close during a flight with a flick of my finger. Works great.

Excellent idea.
As a newbie I too have found trying to keep a constant forward speed for hyper-lapse evading me. Is there an STL file available please? I would love to try it.

peter E...RE: "Is there an STL file available please?",
yes, I'll be glad to share my stl files, but there's a complication for the moment: my device actually attaches to a fitting I got as part of a sunshield/lanyard kit I got on amazon. I plan on replacing that part with a 3d printed equivalent, but I haven't designed that yet. I'll have it in a few days. Incidentally, I use FreeCad to design things, and if you have access to that program or another that can read its files, that would be a better route for you. Here's the latest version, where I moved the adjustment thumb wheel towards the stick. With the previous design, that wheel blocked the camera settings on the RC app.

You will also notice four button-head M3 screws of various lengths in the design, and a hex head 8-32 screw for the adjustment worm. You might need to use a file to make that specialized screw out of a more standard bolt.

peter E...RE: "Is there an STL file available please?",
I did design a replacement fitting for what came with my sunshield kit, so I now have five STLs that I can get to you. I've made some changes to make things easier...
(1) I replaced the metric screws in the old design with four 1/4" 4-40 philip head screws, which are available at Home Depot and Ace.
(2) I replaced that hex-head screw with a more standard 1" round-head 8-32 screw, again commonly available. You will also need one 8-32 hex nut.
(3) I simplified the adjustment nut fitting to just be a 8-32 clearance hole in the plastic. Seems to be holding up fine so far.

So, a pic of the new configuration is below, There are 5 STLs:
(1) The main faceplate fitting that spans across the top of the RC.
(2) The fitting behind it that slips onto the front of the antenna cavity (new, and not shown).
(3) The green limit block that the 8-32 screws pops into (and is now further held in place with thin superglue).
(4) The gate latch added to make the fitting a cruise control
(5) The adjustment wheel, that has an 8-32 nut cavity for a nut that drives the adjustment.

So, what kind of printer and slicer do you have? Part (2) requires that you print with supports from the slicer, Do you know how to do that?

And just as a test, here is one of the .stl files in a zip attachment (forum accepts zip attachments, but not .stl files).