soo seems that last two nights were awesome in terms of air quality / no clouds / moon hiden and high aurora activity - went out yestarday to take a try on it and thought i had nothing [not visible on dji rc live feed] but one of 180 panoramas got something - on the right of the picturte at horizon line, all i did was pump EV to max
Q: what can i do, maybe in manual settings to get even better picture of aurora

picture, sadly forum has 2 MB limit so i had to compress it from 8,57MB

I took this with a dslr, ISO 1000, aperture 2.8, shutter speed 5 seconds.

You just have to experiment. One tip its quite often larger than you can see with a naked eye, however with the right settings you capture more than your eyes can see.

Mavic57pro2 Posted at 9-5 09:36
I took this with a dslr, ISO 1000, aperture 2.8, shutter speed 5 seconds.

You just have to experiment. One tip its quite often larger than you can see with a naked eye, however with the right settings you capture more than your eyes can see.

i do not expect miracles as i am taking pictures from norther Poland - just want to squeeze as much of it as possible while it's possible - thanks will try

Mavic57pro2 Posted at 9-5 09:36
I took this with a dslr, ISO 1000, aperture 2.8, shutter speed 5 seconds.

You just have to experiment. One tip its quite often larger than you can see with a naked eye, however with the right settings you capture more than your eyes can see.

nice man

Drones really aren't designed to capture very long (5+second) exposure shots.

If you own a ground camera, grab a tripod for it and you'll be able to get some amazing shots from the ground, with great results.

First you must move to a location with poor or none light contamination of a city ... aka .... no lamp lights

The Mini 3 Pro has a fixed and luminous diaphragm f/1.7 …. After review some videos, I suggest ISO 1600 (max suggested)  and manually try to find out with shutter speed is better.
As first try, I suggest you to check camera settings with the drone static, without fly. Once you have the settings, then you can think about to fly. Video probably should be better as is 25/30 FPS an the image integration is more visible. If the Aurora is not strong, probably you need to get up ISO to 3200 but there will be noise. Good luck.

Next month I am traveling to Iceland with the aim to get some ones with the drone.

Hi there. Hope that you could get the best recommendation from our fellow DJI Pilots. Should you have other inquiries, please don't hesitate to reach us. Thank you for your valued support!

It will be hard to capture with a tiny sensor camera that is flying since you will need to bump the ISO and use long shutterspeeds.

Bodkins Best Photography Posted at 9-5 12:36
Unless you're super far north or getting an extreme storm you're not likely to get much from a drone.  Stability is an issue.  Things likely won't be sharp with all that drift during a 4+ second exposure.  

Stability and longer shutter speeds are key.  

Great Shot    

You don’t need to shoot any higher than 5/8 seconds with wide open Aperture and ISO as low as you can get, but you need to own a mavic 3 for this , all you can do with mini 3 is shoot lowest shutter speed lowest ISO…

Cool shots!

Anybody tried multiple 2 second exposures with the Mini 3 Pro and stacking together using the additive blend mode?

Nice night shot. The tips are already written, so there is nothing else to say for me:-)

Mavic57pro2 Posted at 9-5 09:36
I took this with a dslr, ISO 1000, aperture 2.8, shutter speed 5 seconds.

You just have to experiment. One tip its quite often larger than you can see with a naked eye, however with the right settings you capture more than your eyes can see.

beautiful shot. thanks for sharing

Bodkins Best Photography Posted at 9-5 12:36
Unless you're super far north or getting an extreme storm you're not likely to get much from a drone.  Stability is an issue.  Things likely won't be sharp with all that drift during a 4+ second exposure.  

Stability and longer shutter speeds are key.  

That is definitly an amazing picture. Just wow - congratulations for it!

https://forum.dji.com/forum.php? ... D776%26typeid%3D776
It looks like stability by night is an additional problem

Going to a place with less light pollution would definitely help.

This photo was shot with the Mini 3 Pro this Sunday. I used a 2 second shutter and ISO 1600 for this. Also, you will have to shoot in RAW and process it in Lightroom (or similar) to really pull detail out of it.

This was my first test of shooting the Aurora with a drone, I'm impressed at least The F1.7 lens really helps.

Edit: Note that the Aurora activity wasn't really at its highest when I captured this.

hey, thanks and amazing view

Bussty Posted at 9-6 02:15
Anybody tried multiple 2 second exposures with the Mini 3 Pro and stacking together using the additive blend mode?

Here was my first test shot (don't mind the horrid wildfire smoke and the quarter moon in the shot) 14 two-second exposures, stacked.

Wideangle lenses make distant things look even further away.
Unless you have the aurora showing over a large part of your sky, the Mini 3 isn't going to get anything worth the effort.

Labroides Posted at 9-6 13:50
Wideangle lenses make distant things look even further away.
Unless you have the aurora showing over a large part of your sky, the Mini 3 isn't going to get anything worth the effort.

This is true but sometimes it won't be wide enough. This is a 17mm in Queenstown, little old NZ.  Very rare though to be this far North and this big. You would have probably even seen this one in OZ!

To "freeze" the movement of the auroras you need as short shutter speed as possible, preferrably less than 8 seconds. That means wide open aperture and high ISO. If the auroras are moving fast and you use a too long shutter speed it will all become a blur.
I always use a wide angle lens, between 14 and 24mm. Where I live the auroras cover large parts of the sky during powerful outbursts. It is also a good idea to include the landscape, that gives depth and a stronger visual impact.
This photo of a very fast moving aurora (almost like an explosion) was taken with a 14mm lens, 5 sec. exposure, f/3.5, ISO 2200 with a Nikon full-frame camera.

ArcticPhoto Posted at 9-6 14:12
To "freeze" the movement of the auroras you need as short shutter speed as possible, preferrably less than 8 seconds. That means wide open aperture and high ISO. If the auroras are moving fast and you use a too long shutter speed it will all become a blur.
I always use a wide angle lens, between 14 and 24mm. Where I live the auroras cover large parts of the sky during powerful outbursts. It is also a good idea to include the landscape, that gives depth and a stronger visual impact.
This photo of a very fast moving aurora (almost like an explosion) was taken with a 14mm lens, 5 sec. exposure, f/3.5, ISO 2200 with a Nikon full-frame camera.

That is incredible!!

scottfrey Posted at 9-6 13:04
Here was my first test shot (don't mind the horrid wildfire smoke and the quarter moon in the shot) 14 two-second exposures, stacked.
[view_image]

Good to know that works. Thanks

GeirB Posted at 9-6 08:09
This photo was shot with the Mini 3 Pro this Sunday. I used a 2 second shutter and ISO 1600 for this. Also, you will have to shoot in RAW and process it in Lightroom (or similar) to really pull detail out of it.

This was my first test of shooting the Aurora with a drone, I'm impressed at least  The F1.7 lens really helps.

Good to know. Says in a really major Aurora the Mini 3 Pro might just be able to generate a reasonable result.

To what extent are solar storms able to distort the GPS signal and maybe the wobbling is also a result of the magnetic activity.
Is the Mini 3 Pro night stable when the kp index e.g. is less than 3?

RoZis Posted at 9-6 23:29
To what extent are solar storms able to distort the GPS signal and maybe the wobbling is also a result of the magnetic activity.
Is the Mini 3 Pro night stable when the kp index e.g. is less than 3?

GNSS satellites are protected to a certain extent, but a very strong solar storm may distort them temporarily. More info here: https://breakingdefense.com/2022 ... dio-communications/
In October 2003 was the most powerful solar storm in recent decades. From NASA website: "Thirteen years ago, a series of large solar storms began to rage above the sun’s surface. including the largest solar flare ever recorded, measuring a whopping X-28—where X class flares are the most powerful flares and the number afterwards represents additional steps in strength. Because this event occurred around Halloween, these storms were dubbed the Halloween Storms".

Magnetic compasses can also be affected during powerful solar storms.
Here is a link: https://www.nasa.gov/feature/rem ... olar-storms-of-2003