Anyone ever ponder attaching a second battery in parallel? Maybe one could buy two power modules, attaching the male ends of connectors to the two batteries, and wiring the other ends in parallel and attaching them to the actual power module. One could likely make a simple mount to attach the batteries to the sides (via 3D printer) or something similar. Does this seem viable? Would the weight be too much for takeoff, and if not, would it drain the power too quickly to justify the second battery, or might it even crack the shell? Or are these things one has to determine through experimentation? You're thoughts and opinons would be appreciated, especially if this sounds totally ridiculous and impossible. Just wondering. Thanks! P.S.
If the idea isn't immediately shot down due to something obviously wrong with the idea that I am missing, I will probably give it a shot and report the results.

I seen lots of devices like this for the phantom 1 so I'm sure it can be done for the p3

Lil' Outdoo Posted at 2015-8-13 08:52
I seen lots of devices like this for the phantom 1 so I'm sure it can be done for the p3

Really? Could you possibly point me in the direction of one such example? That would be greatly helpful.

http://fpvcustoms.com/products/p ... day-return-shipping

bastell Posted at 2015-8-13 09:26
http://fpvcustoms.com/products/p3-battery-upgrade-mod-for-longer-flight-times-includes-free-2-3-day- ...

That's interesting. Seems a bit complex though with the case modifications. Does it use the stock battery with aftermarket batteries? What about just using two OEM batteries? Do you have any insight as to what the flight time is with that mod or how it is connected internally? Thanks for the link though!

bastell Posted at 2015-8-13 09:26
http://fpvcustoms.com/products/p3-battery-upgrade-mod-for-longer-flight-times-includes-free-2-3-day- ...

that looks cool, but its hard to say how safe is it to fly

bigbenny98 Posted at 2015-8-13 09:49
That's interesting. Seems a bit complex though with the case modifications. Does it use the stock  ...

Check this thread out http://forum.dji.com/forum.php?m ... mp;page=2#pid188163

Again, thanks for that! It has a lot of great information on modifications in one place. Did you ever go about doing your own battery mod? I wonder how the external batteries are attached. I've never looked at the bird's guts farther than peering into it's battery compartment.

bigbenny98 Posted at 2015-8-13 10:21
Again, thanks for that! It has a lot of great information on modifications in one place. Did you eve ...

No haven't done a battery mod but like you am interested,Im sure there will be more battery mods coming out from different sources that might be way better than these as In easy installation light and cheap.

bastell Posted at 2015-8-13 10:27
No haven't done a battery mod but like you am interested,Im sure there will be more battery mods c ...

But all of them will increase weight, worsen flight behavior and raise the operation temperature.

Furthermore: Increasing weight, increases wear...

Considering the 2312 / ESC are designed for 350g/axis, these mods are only for people, being aware of downsides and potential risks.

Although I´m an experienced DIY guy and would like to have a 450/550 kit with P3 abilities, I won´t go for P3 mods like this.

bigbenny98 Posted at 2015-8-13 09:16
Really? Could you possibly point me in the direction of one such example? That would be greatly he ...

This is one that I saw http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Ca ... opter/dp/B00OSZX1N6

bigbenny98 Posted at 2015-8-13 09:16
Really? Could you possibly point me in the direction of one such example? That would be greatly he ...

This is one that I saw http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Ca ... opter/dp/B00OSZX1N6

bigbenny98 Posted at 2015-8-13 09:16
Really? Could you possibly point me in the direction of one such example? That would be greatly he ...

Here

So I got around to giving this a try: It's pretty straightforward and works well, and I imagine the weight is comparable to one regular and two aftermarket batteries. I took one of those cheap parallel charging boards you get off of Ebay for a few dollars and de-soldered four of the battery pins, then simply soldered the pins to 4 wires--2 black, 2 white--and then soldered the ends of the like batteries together and then to some alligator clips and attached it to the bird and the two batteries. Works perfectly, with the exception that it turns up a battery error as a result of not creating any connection between the information link (the small, square portion on the smart board that connects to the four prongs on the power module). Easy fix however, just attach some wires. Of course this could be very much refined and made practical by mounting the batteries as you did in the other mod and so on, I just did it as a proof of concept. So I suppose my question is, why use one DJI and two non DJI batteries for a total of 3 instead of just using two of the regular batteries? I mean for instance, it would make for a pretty simple kit, just a mount, and I bet you could modify the OEM power module spare parts by just wiring two of them together in parallel at the bare wire ends and attaching it to a female end, like what is in one of the batteries. Then it's very simple, easy, and uses batteries of the same voltage, chemistry, manufacturer, etc. Let me know your thoughts.
Pictures:

Just bought two of these guys for experimenting. Would love to hear some thoughts. Especially on fashioning a female socket to attach the to the chopper from the wires/power modules.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/30167726 ... =STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Generally speaking, and especially with high tech chemistrys, batteries should not be connected in direct parallel without a device between them to allow for slight imbalances in the two.  Has anyone done any real research on this?

ag0n Posted at 2015-8-19 10:14
Generally speaking, and especially with high tech chemistrys, batteries should not be connected in d ...

Some, and that's true, and also another reason why I'd at the very least opt for using the same brand of battery. Could you propose any sort of solution for that issue?

I don't know the technically correct way, or the way they do it in other services, but at the least, I would have a diode in series with each battery before they tie together.  That way, you can pull from either/both, without anything flowing from one battery to the other.  The diodes will drop your voltage .6V, so there would likely be less torque.  A better design would be to use only one at a time by way of electronic switching.  A precision comparator would monitor the live cell and switch to the second one when it dropped to a certain voltage.  It would also need to have protection so that it didn't try to switch back to the original when the second battery was about depleted.  With proper packaging, the whole thing could be extremely small and lightweight.